Rapide clutch problems

Vic Youel

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
For more years than I care to remember I have wrestled with poor quality parts and my many purchases of clutch cables (Johnson's et al ), HB10AS's (variants included) and a second G94 (never bothered to return it)..... yes I have a spare and incompatible G94. At least one cable (or was it two?) was used on my new Comet, perhaps in consolation.

I now have a perfect pair of clutch cable and abutment parts that interface. Thanks Russell and what good quality (mmmm must ask for a discount for this advert)

There are many dodgy bits out there that are totally incompatible so my advice is always consult knowledgeable and technically intelligent suppliers and colleagues within your local sections.....this old boy is still learning. I hate spending money and investing in my rejected spares box.

Today I'm still wrestling with C30 cups and C29 springs to get my plates lifting evenly...... most people have given up and bought modern clutches!! I positively refuse!!! I have two sets of each part plus a third set of springs and both parts all have wide dimesional variations.....coupled to my various clutch plate purchases over the years nothing really works properly on my vincent clutch. ....grrhhh!

Then, to compound my potential problems, a well known local member reminded me that there are six ways of grease or oil leaking and ruining your clutch... and I only adressed four of them.... so I now have a major dismantling job.


Can anyone name the six ways....clue is they are not all in KTB etc.

Vic

PS The drawings project and a technical help section in MPH would be really useful to help solve my problems but the many commercial agendas, lack of VOC volunteer technical advice etc., not aided by VOC declared secrecy of drawings prohibit such open dialogue on drawing dimensions and tolerances..

PPS Should I give up on Vincent clutches and buy a modern one..... yes it would have been cheaper but I would like to make the original work in a similar manner to that on my local mate's bike.
 

Tom Gaynor

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Cables

Six ways to screw your clutch? Pass.
There are stiff "UK" cables. and "soft" "Japanese cables. Johnsons sell both. Soft cables are good for pull, useless for push. So don't use them for air-levers. Past that, Rudge (the factory) used 45 thou cables for throttles. The REC (the blazerati) sells "universal" 60 thou cables. They stick. 45 thou cables don't. So my Vin has 60 thou air-lever cables. 45 thou throttle cables, a Japanese clutch cable...........
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Len Matthews

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I've never had a problem with Johnson's cables,their service is spot-on. Different story with some supplied by Harper Engines years ago- they were rubbish!
 

andygbsmith

Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Hi vic,
The spring lengths can simply be shimmed to bring them all to the same length but do they all compress the same amount for a given load?.

You could always fit the mini valve mod, this normaly sorts the problem due to the increase in surface area at the contact point.
Andy
 

harvey

Forum User
VOC Member
Don't know about Vincent clutch, but can anyone suggest a reason for my Rapide clutch, which is from a Suzuki GS, grabbing at the end of the engagement process? Chaincase is on ATF, level is 10mm lower than standard to reduce drag,clutch does not drag except slightly when cold ie silent gear engagement when warm, basket has no wear grooves in it, plates are flat,springs seem pretty even ie it lifts squarely Bushes have been renewed. Clutch is not intended to be "dry" and it has a drain hole back to the chaincase, low down. ESA is D Series, all new springs.
Anyone know what the purpose of the spring ring, like a conical spring, fitted at the back of the plate pack, is? Could it be an antigrab device, and does it matter which way round it goes?
Sorry should have said the spring ring looks like a narrow section Disc spring not a conical spring.It's same diameter as the plates and radially about 8mm deep at a guess.Thickness about2mm?
 
Last edited:

stumpy lord

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Hi,
sorry but I can not help with your spring ring problem, as I dont know what they are[ the suzuki clutches on our twins do not have them. How ever to cure a slight grabing problem try using a fully synthetic 0/40 grade oil,and fully oil bath the clutch. you will need to drill a couple of holes above the clutch to allow oil to transfer from the primary case in to the clutch housing, and remove the large seal to allow the excess oil to return to the primary case. This works on both our twins giving a beautiful action with on grabing.
stumpy lord
 

Len Matthews

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
With all this discussion about problems with multi plate clutches, it's interesting to note that Peter Sprot's "Arctic Tour" Rapide has a standard clutch which, to quote him "worked perfectly":rolleyes:
 

paw99

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
For more years than I care to remember I have wrestled with poor quality parts and my many purchases of clutch cables (Johnson's et al ), HB10AS's (variants included) and a second G94 (never bothered to return it)..... yes I have a spare and incompatible G94. At least one cable (or was it two?) was used on my new Comet, perhaps in consolation.

I now have a perfect pair of clutch cable and abutment parts that interface. Thanks Russell and what good quality (mmmm must ask for a discount for this advert)

There are many dodgy bits out there that are totally incompatible so my advice is always consult knowledgeable and technically intelligent suppliers and colleagues within your local sections.....this old boy is still learning. I hate spending money and investing in my rejected spares box.

Today I'm still wrestling with C30 cups and C29 springs to get my plates lifting evenly...... most people have given up and bought modern clutches!! I positively refuse!!! I have two sets of each part plus a third set of springs and both parts all have wide dimesional variations.....coupled to my various clutch plate purchases over the years nothing really works properly on my vincent clutch. ....grrhhh!

Then, to compound my potential problems, a well known local member reminded me that there are six ways of grease or oil leaking and ruining your clutch... and I only adressed four of them.... so I now have a major dismantling job.


Can anyone name the six ways....clue is they are not all in KTB etc.

Vic

PS The drawings project and a technical help section in MPH would be really useful to help solve my problems but the many commercial agendas, lack of VOC volunteer technical advice etc., not aided by VOC declared secrecy of drawings prohibit such open dialogue on drawing dimensions and tolerances..

PPS Should I give up on Vincent clutches and buy a modern one..... yes it would have been cheaper but I would like to make the original work in a similar manner to that on my local mate's bike.
Yes, I am partway down the same rocky road, now trying to find C29 springs to fit in the old thimbles, as the new ones I bought are interference fit. Can you advise source of c29 springs not too fat?
Good disengaging.
 
Top