C: Clutch Series ‘C’ Rapide Clutch Slip

erik

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Is it a problem to unscrew the six screws of the clutch cover and look inside if there is some oil contamination? Erik
 

Chris Launders

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The oil usually comes down the splines into the clutch centre rather than via the primary seal as in that case it would sit in the bottom of the clutch chamber.
 

timetraveller

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Have you done what I suggested above? It is no good having slack in the cable if there is no clearance between the actuating arm and the pushrod. That can be checked by looking inside the thin inspection cap on top of the kick start cover. You only need thous at the bottom which, because of the leverage effect, becomes a tenth of an inch at the top where the cable fits into the actuating arm.
 

danno

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Have you done what I suggested above? It is no good having slack in the cable if there is no clearance between the actuating arm and the pushrod. That can be checked by looking inside the thin inspection cap on top of the kick start cover. You only need thous at the bottom which, because of the leverage effect, becomes a tenth of an inch at the top where the cable fits into the actuating arm.
No sign of oil but I can’t see the plates anyway.
All I can see in the inspection hole is the top of the actuating arm, cable and a vertical spring. Not sure where the pushrod is.
 

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danno

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It’s ok. It’s all in the handbook.
Just a case of reading and understanding.
The clutch plate and springs need to come off and I misunderstood where the
pushrod adjuster was.
Slightly hidden by the kick start.
 

timetraveller

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danno, you will get more pleasure out of your bike if you learn a little more about it. There are several books and the spare parts list available from the Spares Company. When you look in the small inspection cap you will see the top of the actuating lever, the end of the cable with nipple and the spring. The push rod is operated by the lever and touches it near the bottom. I don't have one to hand to give you exact measurements but roughtly three quarters of an inch from the bottom is the contact point for the push rod and the lever is, say, six inches long. Just put your finger inside the inspection cap and try to push to top of the lever inwards and outwards. Does it move? If not then there is no clearance between the actuating lever and the clutch push rod. If it moves in and out, say, a tenth of an inch then there is clearance and you have to look elsewhere for your problem, probably oil contamination. From the above I suspect that you will not feel competent to service the clutch itself. That means finding help locally or paying someone to do it. The full instructions for all the work involved are in several of the books and, once again, I urge you to get them and read up what you need to do. If I can learn how to do it then so can anyone else.
 

timetraveller

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VOC Member
danno, your message came in while I was typing my effort. There are TWO places where the pushrod can be adjusted. The one you have now discovered in the lower part of the kick start cover and one in the middle of the outer plate of the clutch. Unless of course you have one of my needle roller thrust races fitted in which case you only have the first of those.
 

danno

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
danno, you will get more pleasure out of your bike if you learn a little more about it. There are several books and the spare parts list available from the Spares Company. When you look in the small inspection cap you will see the top of the actuating lever, the end of the cable with nipple and the spring. The push rod is operated by the lever and touches it near the bottom. I don't have one to hand to give you exact measurements but roughtly three quarters of an inch from the bottom is the contact point for the push rod and the lever is, say, six inches long. Just put your finger inside the inspection cap and try to push to top of the lever inwards and outwards. Does it move? If not then there is no clearance between the actuating lever and the clutch push rod. If it moves in and out, say, a tenth of an inch then there is clearance and you have to look elsewhere for your problem, probably oil contamination. From the above I suspect that you will not feel competent to service the clutch itself. That means finding help locally or paying someone to do it. The full instructions for all the work involved are in several of the books and, once again, I urge you to get them and read up what you need to do. If I can learn how to do it then so can anyone else.
Thanks. I have 'Know Thy Beast', Riders Handbook, spare parts list and loads of old documents, maintenance sheets etc.
I do lack a lathe, pillar drill/hobby mill but do most work myself.
Changed out mag for an Alton, tyres, servicing, electrics etc.
More spannering than riding but I have my two BM's for regular use.
 
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