Questions about OP36 - Oil Pump Locating Screw

ClassicBiker

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Learned Friends,
I've have a few questions about OP36. I was messing about with the Shadow yesterday and I noticed an oil drip coming from somewhere below near the exhaust junction. Initially I thought the one of the banjo bolts for either the oil feed or oil return had backed off a bit an needed tightening. So while the bike was idling I got down on my hands and knees to see what I could see. Imagine my surprise to see OP36 rocking back and forth and a little oil weeping from it.:mad::( Well I blipped the throttle a couple of times to seem if it made matters worse, I was under no illusion that it would improve things. But it didn't change significantly, but it is enough of an oil leak to be annoying and more than a little worrisome on a longish ride I think. So my questions are:
1) As I have a direct line of sight to OP36 and I can get a screw driver on it. It doesn't appear to be trapped by the timing cover, but I didn't notice a punch lock mark. Do I need to take the timing cover off to remove it?
2) If the screw is removed and the oil tank hasn't been emptied, am I likely to have oil gushing out?
3) Once the screw is out, is there any danger in cleaning it and the hole it came from with a solvent and replacing it with either Loctite thread locker on the threads or Loctite Hydraulic Sealant on the cheese head?
4) Am I correct in thinking that if I screw it out and don't turn over the motor it will screw right back in, nothing is going to fall out of alignment or come flying out at me?
Thanks
Steven
 

bmetcalf

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VOC Member
Regarding #2, disconnect the oil line at T32AS at the back of the UFM to keep the oil in the tank.
 

ClassicBiker

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Regarding #2, disconnect the oil line at T32AS at the back of the UFM to keep the oil in the tank.
Bruce,
The glaring obvious completely escaped me, when I asked #2.
Thanks
Steven
silent treatment.jpg
 

vibrac

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If the engine does not rotate you can take the screw out and in at will. take care, if the reduced plain portion at the end that engages in the slot has been damaged or is thinner then part of the track/slot in the pump body may prevent a correct pin being inserted in that case you will need to rotate the engine a fraction at this point you will ask me which way to rotate and I will admit I dont know :oops: its suck it and see...
 

Bill Thomas

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Steven, How long has that engine been together ?, I would NOT put a NEW screw in, There are some faulty ones out there, If they are too big you won't be able to feel the tightness on the plunger if it is so, Which would destroy the pump.
You should be able to take your one out, but don't turn the engine over, Just check it looks OK and put some sealer on it and punch lock it.
If the pluger did move, I don't think it will, You could take the Brass end cap off and screw by hand a bolt into the middle of the plunger, And turn the plunger that way to realine it, Only use a spanner on the brass plug !, The rest by hand !!. Cheers Bill.
 

ClassicBiker

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Steven, How long has that engine been together ?, I would NOT put a NEW screw in, There are some faulty ones out there, If they are too big you won't be able to feel the tightness on the plunger if it is so, Which would destroy the pump.
You should be able to take your one out, but don't turn the engine over, Just check it looks OK and put some sealer on it and punch lock it.
If the pluger did move, I don't think it will, You could take the Brass end cap off and screw by hand a bolt into the middle of the plunger, And turn the plunger that way to realine it, Only use a spanner on the brass plug !, The rest by hand !!. Cheers Bill.
Hi Bill,
The engine has been together since around 1980. Thanks for the info on some screws out there being faulty, I hadn't considered the scenario you suggest. I wasn't considering replacing the screw with a new one, only putting it back after I took it out. I was just looking to confirm or deny the use of sealant was okay and that the plunger wasn't going to move when the screw as removed. Your response and Vibrac's lead me to believe I should be alright taking it out, cleaning it and the hole with solvent, applying a little sealer and replacing it. I figured I could but I just wanted to check with those with more experience.
I'll let you know how I got on.
Many thanks all.
Steven
 

chankly bore

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Non-VOC Member
You won't be able to turn the plunger, but you can move it up and down, which is all you need. Check for wear on the inner end of the screw, as the usual fault is that they are too long, and lock against the plunger. The plunger can slide downwards with gravity, so you are best to remove the cap OP33 and position it with your ten inch long prehensile Jaguar mechanic's finger, or a 1/4" BSF bolt so the peg slot aligns. Mark where the screw slot was and check the sides of the peg for wear. If it does up in a different position you won't need to buy a new one.
 

Bill Thomas

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VOC Member
Hi Bill,
The engine has been together since around 1980. Thanks for the info on some screws out there being faulty, I hadn't considered the scenario you suggest. I wasn't considering replacing the screw with a new one, only putting it back after I took it out. I was just looking to confirm or deny the use of sealant was okay and that the plunger wasn't going to move when the screw as removed. Your response and Vibrac's lead me to believe I should be alright taking it out, cleaning it and the hole with solvent, applying a little sealer and replacing it. I figured I could but I just wanted to check with those with more experience.
I'll let you know how I got on.
Many thanks all.
Steven
Sorry Steven, I was just thinking, If you took it out and thought , I will put a new one in, It could be trouble.
We put a Comet together in 2015, I knew they could jam, And it did !, Lucky for us, I had a "new old stock one ", But to check it, I got Ron to turn the engine over many times slowly, With me holding a bolt up the plunger, Pulling and pushing all the time, You can feel a little slack, If it's OK.
But I think to check it that way would be hard to do if the engine is on it's wheels.
If yours has been together for some time, It should be OK. Good Luck, Bill.
 
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