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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Pre war Burman clutch
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<blockquote data-quote="methamon" data-source="post: 11284" data-attributes="member: 377"><p><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="color: #000000">Pre war Burman clutch</span></span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="color: #000000">My Burman clutch will not operate satisfactorily in as much as first gear engagement from a standing start is dreadful., that is to say it produces a horrible grating noise before engagement I have checked all the things which I think are obvious including:</span></span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="color: #000000">There is approx 1/8” lift on the clutch push rod</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="color: #000000">Cable. pivots & push rod are lubricated</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="color: #000000">Plates lift squarely</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="color: #000000">There are no burrs or indentations either on the ears of the plates or the basket</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="color: #000000">I replaced the original perforated plate / cork insert arrangement.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="color: #000000">I changed the oil from 20/50 to 10/30</span></span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="color: #000000">When in gear with engine stopped the clutch can be pulled in and the bike pushed forward, i.e. the clutch appears to work ok.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="color: #000000">I am aware that if left standing the clutch will stick and needs to be freed up.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="color: #000000">I am also used to paddling bikes forward and engaging gear to prevent grating.</span></span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="color: #000000">The problem is that this clutch appears to defy logic and I really do have to sort it one way or another as the grating is just shocking. I am aware that Conways do a Japanese clutch as a kit but surely these clutches used to work?</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="color: #000000">Can anyone provide any informed comment leading to a solution?</span></span></span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="methamon, post: 11284, member: 377"] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Pre war Burman clutch[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000] [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]My Burman clutch will not operate satisfactorily in as much as first gear engagement from a standing start is dreadful., that is to say it produces a horrible grating noise before engagement I have checked all the things which I think are obvious including:[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000] [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]There is approx 1/8” lift on the clutch push rod[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Cable. pivots & push rod are lubricated[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Plates lift squarely[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]There are no burrs or indentations either on the ears of the plates or the basket[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]I replaced the original perforated plate / cork insert arrangement.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]I changed the oil from 20/50 to 10/30[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000] [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]When in gear with engine stopped the clutch can be pulled in and the bike pushed forward, i.e. the clutch appears to work ok.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]I am aware that if left standing the clutch will stick and needs to be freed up.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]I am also used to paddling bikes forward and engaging gear to prevent grating.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000] [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]The problem is that this clutch appears to defy logic and I really do have to sort it one way or another as the grating is just shocking. I am aware that Conways do a Japanese clutch as a kit but surely these clutches used to work?[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Can anyone provide any informed comment leading to a solution?[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Pre war Burman clutch
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