E: Engine Power Arc Ignitions

vibrac

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The site of the ignition coils are always a problem. I have no enthusiasm for the mag cowl mounting too cramped and exposed. On road bikes and the Comet racer (BTH) I just stuck then on the front sidecar mounting but with the twin racer that space is occupied by the under-slung hydraulic damper and there was no room under the tank especially with the big front updraft GP and the small space over the gearbox left after the rear front head GP and the breather catch tank was untidy & crowded. Fortunately to strengthen the racing seat for pushing (Its no good putting "dont push" on the bump someone always does in a panic) I had made a ply seat base with 6 mm inserts for attachments so near the front of the under seat is where the coils went.
 

Dave61

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It is difficult on the twins for lack of room else-ware.......At least on a Comet you have a few more choices........Keeping it all under the mag cowl is tidy but goes pretty much against what all the manufacturers say about HT coils in close proximity to the rest of the ignition set up.......I did the same as you with my Grosset ignition on my Rapide, but I did try to keep the actual HT leads and that end of the coil as far to the left as i could....... I made up some small brackets and I think I used a large "P" clamp that wrapped around the body of the ignition unit to mount the HT coil away to the left and close to the inside of the mag cowl. I believe on these electronic ignitions that you should run some form of resistor in each HT lead........Either use resistor plug caps or resistor spark plugs but not both..........On the new Ignitech programmable ignition I have bought for my Norvin single racer you must do this or else it voids any warranty of the ignition unit. The electronics can be sensitive enough that any HT interference can damage them apparently. I know if you run a new style digital Smiths speedo or tacho that the HT interference will upset them big time, but using resistor plug caps will fix this problem.

That's very helpful Greg.
I have got the HT leads over to the left side of the bike & got a pair of resistor caps waiting to go on.
Cheers
Dave
 

Bill Thomas

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Even on old Cars, More so V8s And V12s We tried to keep the H.T. leads apart, To prevent cross over firing.
 

Oldhaven

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If you use a Vincent Power Arc ignition you must use resistor plugs and cables. The Moroso Blue Max 800 ohm cables are provided with the ignition, but are available locally, though maybe not in black. The plug choice is left up to the user due to varying engine requirements. I use NGK BPR5ES and sometimes 6ES. My two coils for single fire are under the cowl on the Rapide, but that is a difficult fabrication test for the average user. I have not had any difficulty with interference, maybe because the ignition uses an optical encoder instead of a magnetic field. I do keep the coil trigger wires away from the plug wires as much as possible. Bob Larmour has designed and uses a mount up on the cylinder head on his Rapide with a dual fire wasted spark coil. I can send a copy of a template if needed. I think it could be combined with the steering damper mount for someone clever. I will be putting the two coils for the TPV dual plug Comet under the tank up by the head, fastened to the Egli type DDV spine tank. The coils are also Power Arc and supplied with the ignition to the users single or dual fire needs and designed to handle the recovery demands of the triple spark capability. You can’t find them at the auto parts store, so I carry a spare (to guarantee I will never need it), and they are only a day or two away by post from me or Power Arc in Iowa. I have not heard of coil failures from the many Norton Commando PA users, but the Vincent users are only a few so far. The people at Power Arc tell me that the main source of coil problems is accidentally hooking up the -12v coil terminal to +12v during installation.

I also use the lifter lever with a complete swing dropping it near the bottom and don’t bother with finding the ideal position first. I have done this since the mid 70’s with magnetos, Lucas distributors, dual points conversions, and with this system. It has always worked best for me since I am not very good at positioning the pistons, especially in front of a crowd that wants to hear a Vincent run.

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Monkeypants

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More easy to lift the lever, Kick and drop the lever 2 thirds down anywhere,
More easy on the kickstart too. Good Luck, Bill.

Same here, unless handstarting, then I use Jim's method.
You can see I got it wrong on first try. The backfire could be from the bike or it might be me.
My god the microphone amplifies the noisy valves. It is a rattler, but it's been that way forever. Only hear the exhaust note when underway.

 

BigEd

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VOC Forum Moderator
...........
My god the microphone amplifies the noisy valves. It is a rattler, but it's been that way forever. Only hear the exhaust note when underway.
Mine has always rattled like that but it run fine. I assume it is the cams/valve gear. The cams are what came in the pile of bits. They look to have been stellited and reground, don't know by who. Timing seems to be MK1.
Can you do a video using the same drop the lifter near the bottom technique using your leg. I think it would help people to see it done. I'd do a video but I've taken the kickstart lever off. (Electric start.)
 

Monkeypants

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Mine has always rattled like that but it run fine. I assume it is the cams/valve gear. The cams are what came in the pile of bits. They look to have been stellited and reground, don't know by who. Timing seems to be MK1.
Can you do a video using the same drop the lifter near the bottom technique using your leg. I think it would help people to see it done. I'd do a video but I've taken the kickstart lever off. (Electric start.)

Yes, first trip on it, after climbing a big hill two up in the California heat, I heard the idle and thought it wouldn't get us home. That was 60,000 miles ago, never given any trouble at all.
Will do another video of kickstarting.

Glen
 
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