I have an oil tank which has not been used for 50 odd years.It has been stored without the filler cap and it seems that a small rodent or lizard has crawled inside to die. I have tried the usual methods of small nuts and shaking with kerosene and diesel,but it looks as though I am going to have to open the tank to get the crud and rust removed.My question is,Where is the best place to cut the tank open to gain the best access to clean it.I realize that there are internal pipes which I don't want to damage,so I am reluctant to attack it with a jig saw in case I hit something vital.A sketch of where to cut would be ideal.I am sure this has been done before.
FT: Frame (Twin) Opening Oil Tank.
- Thread starter Garth Robinson
- Start date
I put oil tank manhole in " search " top right hand of the screen.
Good Luck, I cut a slot in mine and welded up thinking I should not have to do it again ??.
Cheers Bill.
Good Luck, I cut a slot in mine and welded up thinking I should not have to do it again ??.
Cheers Bill.
Or put a rodent dilluter in...
Like acid?
But than you might pay your respects to the rodent, make a conways manhole in it.
It could have been a male rodent.
But i would try to solve.
And check with camera on a wire.
Like acid?
But than you might pay your respects to the rodent, make a conways manhole in it.
It could have been a male rodent.
But i would try to solve.
And check with camera on a wire.
Perhaps you could build a Vincent Rat Bike.
Being a careful Yorkshireman I designed my own and got a local chum to make some in exchange for the design. The centre is 4 inches up from the bottom edge of the top of the oil tank. The diameter is 2 inches. The thread is the same as the tappet and valve spring inspection caps. The slot in the top takes the edge of either a K1 or K3 spanner. An 'o' ring in a groove acts as a seal. The outer, flanged 'container' is steel and will distort if you weld it. If it does then you will have to re-tap it after fitting. One was silver soldered and another chum, who copied the design, modified it so that the flange on the container was much larger, flattened at the side to match the width of the oil tank and then held on with epoxy and four screws. I did two for myself and the first chum fitted one for himself. In all cases the pipe work inside the tank was different varying from the pipes being near to the floor of the tank or being right up against the top so when and if you cut the hole take care not to go too far down into the tank.
And here's my version. The thing to watch out for is clearance on the underside of the petrol tank. Cheers, Stu.
You need a high pressure jet washer take all the pipe work out and blast away. the tank is of course desighned to trap any crud that is in there like large idler alloy powder and carbon sludge. alternatively full it with caustic cleaner after bunging up all the holes and heat it up to a good boil this should do the trick . have cleaned outy several this way.
Just remember that liquid caustic soda + OIL = soap. Add some heat and then flush. Repeat. The moment you cut the UFM you open a can of worms. Bear in mind that the caustic soda can generate some serious heat by itself. There are very strict protocols making a solution and eye protection is at the top! I have used caustic soda mixtures to remove oil stains on concrete and if you don't have a bucket of water handy you can end up with a deep hole.
Took me hours to find this 
, Then I found it in "Favourites "A small half a star, Top right hand corner of this page, I have clicked on all sorts to go in there and forget to check it.
, Then I found it in "Favourites "A small half a star, Top right hand corner of this page, I have clicked on all sorts to go in there and forget to check it.