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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
OIl tank manhole installation
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<blockquote data-quote="ET43" data-source="post: 27068" data-attributes="member: 62"><p>The feed pipe fixture within the tank has it's outlet holes some 3/8" above the floor of the tank facing side to side. Also, as there is a lip where the filler neck is welded in, it is darned near impossible to get all the crud out unless one has access to a very high pressure hose and some good detergents. I cut my ufm around two thirds of the way down from the top, taking a four inch long section that included some of the side wall too. I made up a rectangular plate around 3.8" wide x 1/4" thick and tapped it M6 around the periphery to take M6 pan head set screws. This was then tig welded in place and an alloy cover sitting on a cork gasket topped it all off. Despite the thrashing I usually gave my old outfit, it never leaked. The benefit of doing this was to be able to see the floor of the tank at the front and rear, and to be able to get a wire brush in there to agitate the crud. Having done this, I found one Biro top ( blue ), one 1/4" ball bearing, a piece of glass, and around 1/8" of condensed bronze and alloy metals that the magnet that I dangled in the filler neck did not pick up. I now use a cartidge filter in the return line. A few thousand miles later having installed a new paper filter in the chamber and the in line jobby and when oil change time came, the paper filter was spotless and the in line cartridge filter was filthy, full of 'orrible bits of very fine metal which would of course have lubricated the top end. Horrible!! ET43</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ET43, post: 27068, member: 62"] The feed pipe fixture within the tank has it's outlet holes some 3/8" above the floor of the tank facing side to side. Also, as there is a lip where the filler neck is welded in, it is darned near impossible to get all the crud out unless one has access to a very high pressure hose and some good detergents. I cut my ufm around two thirds of the way down from the top, taking a four inch long section that included some of the side wall too. I made up a rectangular plate around 3.8" wide x 1/4" thick and tapped it M6 around the periphery to take M6 pan head set screws. This was then tig welded in place and an alloy cover sitting on a cork gasket topped it all off. Despite the thrashing I usually gave my old outfit, it never leaked. The benefit of doing this was to be able to see the floor of the tank at the front and rear, and to be able to get a wire brush in there to agitate the crud. Having done this, I found one Biro top ( blue ), one 1/4" ball bearing, a piece of glass, and around 1/8" of condensed bronze and alloy metals that the magnet that I dangled in the filler neck did not pick up. I now use a cartidge filter in the return line. A few thousand miles later having installed a new paper filter in the chamber and the in line jobby and when oil change time came, the paper filter was spotless and the in line cartridge filter was filthy, full of 'orrible bits of very fine metal which would of course have lubricated the top end. Horrible!! ET43 [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
OIl tank manhole installation
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