OP: Oil Pump Oil pump OP30 removal

Vinnie Boy

Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
I am finally going to have to do something to cure/improve wet sumping. It's many years since I restored my Rapide, so my question is, can the plunger OP30 be extracted without any other dismantling ie will it clear the G50 plate?

I can't bring myself to fit a anti sumping valve, a tap maybe with some kind of safety measure incorporated . Has anyone fitted the combined tap and ignition isolator from Kingpin Components or the Magneto Guys ? Pictures of members tap/switch installations would be great and much appreciated.

Thank you.

Vinnie Boy.
 

vibrac

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VOC Member
Wet sumping, I think it depends on where the engine/pump plunger stops. My bike may stay weeks before use in those cases I just undo the sump plug and catch the output sometimes its a cup full sometimes nothing.
 

SteveO

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VOC Member
Vinnie Boy. The answer I'm afraid is no. You must remove the G50 plate in order to extract the oil pump. If you've had it out before, you will recall it fouls the plate before you can get it right out. Both the plunger and sleeve have extractor threads built into their blind ends. The sleeve takes a crankcase bolt IIRC. You may find it quite difficult to get out, as it and the crankcase may have distorted over time. But that will be nothing compared to trying to get a new one back in! Don't ask how I know. Have a look at this thread:https://www.vincentownersclub.co.uk/threads/twin-oil-pump-fitting.12155/page-4#post-113124
for my problems! It is quite clear "selective assembly" was employed at the factory. Heat will have no effect on making extraction/reinsertion any easier, as the coefficient of expansion of the alloy case and the phosphor bronze sleeve are virtually identical.
 

Vinnie Boy

Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Thanks SteveO, just to be clear it is only the plunger I am looking to extract at this stage, not the entire pump sleeve.

Vinnie Boy.
 

Robert Watson

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Just to remove the actual pump piece you can just pull it out. It is tapped 1/4 - 20 (If my brain isn't too distorted). We have a pump here with the actual drive gear ground off that we can insert in a new build and spin without the engine turning over, to prime all the oil paths.

Don't forget to pull the pin that goes in from outside the case at 90 degrees to the pump axis and makes the pump shuttle back and forth. It has a slot head screw that maybe staked over.

If you need to remove the brass sleeve that's another whole story!
 

Bill Thomas

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VOC Member
I can't see the point of just taking the plunger out ?,
Any wear would be on the inside of the sleeve ?,
And they are made as a matched pair !!.
Some things are best left alone, As Vibrac says, It's not a problem draining the sump after a layoff,
Seems to happen to more bikes than I thought, I saw a youtube of a Triumph 3 cylinder the other day, That had "our " problem.
The plunger does wear on the gear part, But I can't see that bit making it wet sump.
Good Luck, Bill.
 
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Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Maybe you will be lucky ?, If you have a selection ?,
But the mesh with the other gear won't be the same,
Which could give you rapid wear on the gears ?,
Like I said, some things are best left, But If you want to try it, I will keep my fingers crossed :D .
Cheers Bill.
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Be sure not to mix up single start and twin start pump plungers,
Single start are dead straight, Twin start are a touch lent over, Only a touch !.
The one on the right is a twin start !.
 

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