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OP: Oil Pump Oil pump OP30 removal

Vinnie Boy

Website User
VOC Member
I am finally going to have to do something to cure/improve wet sumping. It's many years since I restored my Rapide, so my question is, can the plunger OP30 be extracted without any other dismantling ie will it clear the G50 plate?

I can't bring myself to fit a anti sumping valve, a tap maybe with some kind of safety measure incorporated . Has anyone fitted the combined tap and ignition isolator from Kingpin Components or the Magneto Guys ? Pictures of members tap/switch installations would be great and much appreciated.

Thank you.

Vinnie Boy.
 

Glenliman

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Here's my tap but it only works on bikes with a keyed ignition switch of some type.
The ignition key is bolted to an aluminium fob that is morticed to fit over the square drive on the oil valve. When turned to the off position, the fob slides under a lip formed on the tap body. They key can't be removed for starting without turning the valve back to the "on" position.
 

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Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Just a thought, Vibrac told us about with a Comet, After your last ride before Winter,
Pull it back on compression, It puts the pump Or Crank, In a certain position,
I tried it for a few times and it seemed to work on my Comet.
Any clever people out there who could tell us where the sweet spot would be on a Twin ?.
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
As I understand it... the object is to get the crankpin at the top so it helps limit the amount of oil draining through the crank. There is no way to know where the oil pump stops and don’t think it matters much....when one port on the pump closes, it is only a few degrees away from the other port opening. This means that there is a very small area (between the rotor and sleeve) that is holding back the flow when sitting. That area is also subject to more wear because any swarf gets dragged through it.
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I think you are right, So I am thinking just over compression on the rear cylinder ?
Must remember to try it.
Trouble is I always think I might be able to get another quick ride in before winter !.
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I think you are right, So I am thinking just over compression on the rear cylinder ?
Must remember to try it.
Trouble is I always think I might be able to get another quick ride in before winter !.
Yes that is the theory... just past compression on the rear cylinder. Who knows.... to get to the crank, the oil has to get past the quill, if the quill is a sloppy fit, the oil can escape there. So if pin is up, maybe less flow if quill is snug and centred properly (original # matching timing cover?) If there is slop in the quill and the crank pin is at the bottom, the quill would probably let air in and act as a siphon break, so pin location might not matter that much. I suppose best fix is to keep riding, second best is new pump. Next time you have a pump in your hand, turn it while looking at the ports on the “pressure” end. Once you see how quickly one port opens after the other closes, you get an idea of how little surface area is holding back the oil. Any scoring in that area (which is where most of it occurs) and there is a pathway for sumping.
The other thing about that small area in the pump that holds back the flow.... given the fact that replacing a pump can be a road laced with land mines, with all the reaming, slide hammering, pulling, twisting, cursing and lapping, that area can end up with damage or too much clearance. Back to square one...
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Being Lazy , I use the draining as a way of changing the oil,
Not keen on putting the old stuff back, But if money is short maybe OK.

With the starting every week, The older I get, I find time goes so quick and before you know it it's Spring !,
Same with the Battery, Keep meaning to take a lead off and forget !.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
This year I have a row of batteries on a shelf and have set up the charger I gave up on automation and simply move down the line every day or so. Perhaps this will mean I shall not have a battery spending spree in the spring and have enough money to buy that lithium battery for the Comet electric start (assuming the engine rebuild doesnt break the bank!)
 

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