Oil priming. Pre oiling. First startup

[Cyborg]

I know there are several methods for priming rebuilt engines, or engines that have been sitting for years. Someone can add a photo of the (drill driven) modified oil pump or if not I’ll dig one out. Been staring at this bottle sitting on the shelf for about 5 years. It is meant to use as a refillable aerosol can. Comes with a variety of spray nozzles and costs around $40 CAD. A cheap alloy water bottle would do as long as the cap could be modified to hold 40 psi safely.
2/3 full = about 150cc and a 40psi charge is enough to expel all of the 20/50 oil. The valve (surprisingly) was easy to modulate and a during its test run it took about 45 seconds to move the 150cc. The hose will be replaced with clear, so the valve can be shut off as soon as air appears. This will take care of the crank and cams. A different fitting can be used to slowly push oil back through the return line to feed the rockers etc. Not sure if the filter housing will need separate attention. It was relatively easy to use the existing aerosol fitting as a pattern to make a new one with a groove for an o ring and threaded for a pipe fitting. One option, not necessarily the best, but won’t make a mess if the pressure is kept to a reasonable level.

 

[Robert Watson]

Just borrow Smith's pump!

 

[Cyborg]

I have a rotor with the gear teeth cut off, but assuming this does a neater job.
May also come in handy if I overdo the baked brie.

 

[Gene Nehring]

So its ready to start?

 

[Cyborg]

I‘m just installing (in between these posts) a turn signal relay and fuse/switchbox. Also a contact strip inside the headlight to try and tame all the wiring that will pass through there. Now it’s just add the actual wires and sheathing. Once that is complete, there are a few more small details like carb clamps and fuel lines, plus wet sand and clear the tank and tail section. Then it’s program the ignition for the twin plug and add all the fluids. In other words, it should be done by the end of the day, but it won’t be.

 

[stu spalding]

Been staring at this bottle sitting on the shelf for about 5 years. It is meant to use as a refillable aerosol can. Comes with a variety of spray nozzles and costs around $40 CAD. A cheap alloy water bottle would do as long as the cap could be modified to hold 40 psi safely.

Looks like a job for one of the empty CO2/Argon bottles from the MIG plant. Cheers, Stu.

 

[Cyborg]

Or... assuming you have those Soda Stream things over there, the deposit on the CO2 bottle is $16 CAD here. It looks like it has a fairly thick wall and would be easy to weld if necessary or you could add a automotive type schrader valve in the bottom. Probably easier to make the fitting too. Only reason I chose this tank is because it had 5 years worth of dust on it. In hindsight, I should have gone the soda stream route and used the spray can for cutting fluid.

 

[Pushrod Twin]

Very cool. Now tell us about the frame, I thought for a moment it was a Tonti with the down tubes cut out but closer comparison suggests otherwise.

 

[bmetcalf]

See https://www.vincentownersclub.co.uk/threads/comet-mongrel.9389/page-27#post-113316 for frame info.

 

[vibrac]

I follow the Ron Kemp Mantra for a new engine start (its basically fill every orifice with oil) including oil can in the crankshaft hole and a full filter housing. Then I run the engine on my rollers till I see a squirt in the filler pop the plugs in and start her up. whats not to like?
Another interesting item is in this months Douglas Mag its all about initially running the bore dry to bed the rings in* so I will try that this time and add oil at the add plugs stage
* by the late Phil Manzano 1995