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E: Engine Oil leak

Gary Gittleson

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I have an oil leak as shown in this picture. It's been over 40 years since I had the opportunity to examine these things, so I don't know what the purpose of this plug is. Is it another pressure relief valve?

In any case, what's to be done to stop this drip??
 

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Marcus Bowden

VOC Hon. Overseas Representative
VOC Member
`Gary my handsome, that is a 5/16" drilling for the oil return suction to the pump, tapped 3/8"Whit-worth thread, I normally replace it with a couple of wraps around of PTFE tape or some kind of silicon rubber and replace it with an Alan type grub screw, easier to get hold of in future.
bananaman.
 

Robert Watson

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I had a set of cases that were cracked along side the thread. Fortunately spotted whilst still apart and cured by welding and re tapping the hole, just in case it was required to be opened to clean a passageway!
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
It can be a job to get that grub screw out for new sealing. You could try first to clean from outside with brake cleaner and air gun and apply some thin Loctite from outside. It might do the trick , no harm to be done if no success. So if no joy take out the screw , degrease as good as possible and apply some MILD Loctite , the teflon tape is a case of luck as it gets wiped off while turning in the screw. I prefer carefully selected Loctites - once again . . . .

Vic
 

greg brillus

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Excellent product, Cyberbond, thread sealant in a tube........Also anaerobic so it does set, but not quite as savage as some loctites........I use it all the time, best on fuel taps and everything else on old bikes.........It just happens to be a German product.........
 

Wad

Website User
VOC Member
Take out the screw and fit a cap head Allen bolt, it will tighten against the case rather than needing to centre pop it. Use a thread seal. It worked for me. Make sure the thread is the same length as the original. If using a liquid thread seal wait for the threads to be clean and nice and dry from oil.
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I am not on the paylist of Loctite , just using the name for clarifying the kind of sealant. There are lots of other companies with similar products - at better prices possibly - just that I am familiar with some Loctite types, the 221 or 222 are low strength thread lockers. Mostly I use low to normal in most places, rarely a need for higher strength which can be a handful when trying to undo. Just it amazes me a bit that these products are less accepted in classic mechanics , instead people revert to silly safety wires, nylocs, split washers and more like these "safety" items which are often not really safe. And no, no Allen bolt in that place, ugly.

Vic
 

Gary Gittleson

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Success! So far, anyway. I decided to use the minimally invasive technique. I bought some wicking green Loctite 290. It was a bit difficult to apply, because the little bottle didn't want to squirt upward, so I just sort of splashed the stuff on the screw. Next time, I'll use a hypodermic needle. I did the same with the case joint at the bottom. All of this after careful cleaning. I left it for three days before riding. No leaks. Yet.

I realize that this might make disassembly a bit more difficult but probably not too much and I don't expect to be doing that for quite some time.
 

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