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All good points Greg however metals are all elastic so as long as you don't exceed the yield strength, i.e. stay within the elastic range, I wouldn't lose any sleep about this.
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thanks Chris, that's a start, but if anyone has pics it would be even better. I'm also trying to figure out how to put a side stand on the bike, maybe a center stand too if possible.I don't have any pictures and the bike is not accessible at the moment but I have a single 5/16"alloy plate roughly triangular which one side picks up the lug on the back of the steering head, the one on the cross tube and an alloy mounting on the 4 front head studs, the 2nd side from the front head to the rear head on another alloy mounting on the 4 studs and then a lug on a cross tube where the rear of my Manx tank is and the 3rd side is back to the steering head.
thanks for that Chris. I've now run into another issue with the front carb. John Healy has very kindly sen t me 4 manifold (the type that allows fitment of a concentric or monbloc) and one works for the rear carb but whichever i try on the front, the carb (brand new 30mm concentric) fouls the frame and/or the rear head. Is there something out there I can buy, or will I have to fabricate something?
I hope I don't have to do that but I can't rule anything out right now!Unless you make a very droopy manifold you will probably have to modify the frame, I cut a scallop out of the frame and welded a curved flat plate in, I now have Mikuni's but would have still needed to modify the frame.
I will attempt to get at the bike and take some pictures of the area under the tank showing the head steady and carb, I also scalloped the front downtube for better front exhaust clearance.
And the throttle and choke cables, very smooth arrangement. The one through the head steady is special.From the alternator ?, it's a piece of alloy tube from the frame of one of those cat beds you hang on a radiator, the cats never used it, the other end goes through a good fitting hole in the engine plate.