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Norvin

passenger0_0

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VOC Member
All good points Greg however metals are all elastic so as long as you don't exceed the yield strength, i.e. stay within the elastic range, I wouldn't lose any sleep about this.
 

greg brillus

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VOC Member
Maybe, but we all know how a lot of brit bikes with full loop frames are prone to cracking.........Mind you, I don't think the manufacturers of the featherbed frame ever expected some lunatics to install engines with 2 to 3 times the power of a 500 single in them.
 

bsaowner

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VOC Member
I don't have any pictures and the bike is not accessible at the moment but I have a single 5/16"alloy plate roughly triangular which one side picks up the lug on the back of the steering head, the one on the cross tube and an alloy mounting on the 4 front head studs, the 2nd side from the front head to the rear head on another alloy mounting on the 4 studs and then a lug on a cross tube where the rear of my Manx tank is and the 3rd side is back to the steering head.
thanks Chris, that's a start, but if anyone has pics it would be even better. I'm also trying to figure out how to put a side stand on the bike, maybe a center stand too if possible.
 

bsaowner

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Ah that I have got pictures of, mounted off the front engine plate, all home made in stainless.

View attachment 37342View attachment 37343
thanks for that Chris. I've now run into another issue with the front carb. John Healy has very kindly sen t me 4 manifold (the type that allows fitment of a concentric or monbloc) and one works for the rear carb but whichever i try on the front, the carb (brand new 30mm concentric) fouls the frame and/or the rear head. Is there something out there I can buy, or will I have to fabricate something?
 

Chris Launders

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VOC Member
Unless you make a very droopy manifold you will probably have to modify the frame, I cut a scallop out of the frame and welded a curved flat plate in, I now have Mikuni's but would have still needed to modify the frame.
I will attempt to get at the bike and take some pictures of the area under the tank showing the head steady and carb, I also scalloped the front downtube for better front exhaust clearance.
 

bsaowner

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Unless you make a very droopy manifold you will probably have to modify the frame, I cut a scallop out of the frame and welded a curved flat plate in, I now have Mikuni's but would have still needed to modify the frame.
I will attempt to get at the bike and take some pictures of the area under the tank showing the head steady and carb, I also scalloped the front downtube for better front exhaust clearance.
I hope I don't have to do that but I can't rule anything out right now!
 

Chris Launders

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VOC Member
Managed to get at mine but not very much room, so here are are views of the full length head/frame steady, although much is obscured by components, this fits under a genuine Manx tank,
And the scallop for the front carb, you could almost certainly get away with a much smaller one with MK1 concentrics as you don't have the top feed like the Mikuni or the bulk of the MK2 concentric which I originally fitted.

SDC18035.JPGSDC18039.JPG
 

Chris Launders

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VOC Member
From the alternator ?, it's a piece of alloy tube from the frame of one of those cat beds you hang on a radiator, the cats never used it, the other end goes through a good fitting hole in the engine plate.
 

brian gains

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VOC Member
Hi Chris, out of interest , in photo No.2 are the plug caps removed for clarity or do you not run the motor as dual fire heads, that doesn't look like a dual fire coil from what i can make out?. thanks.
 

Little Honda

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VOC Member
From the alternator ?, it's a piece of alloy tube from the frame of one of those cat beds you hang on a radiator, the cats never used it, the other end goes through a good fitting hole in the engine plate.
And the throttle and choke cables, very smooth arrangement. The one through the head steady is special.:)
 

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