Misc: Everything Else Norvin Rebuild
- Thread starter Rixon
- Start date
I have never weighed a Norvin, but if you have a spring scale you can weigh the back of the bike and then turn around and weigh the front. You need to stack some scrap boards in front of the scale so the wheel rides up the boards and rolls (or drops a little) onto the scale.
You can do it with a digital scale, but it is a little more of a challenge because the scale may act oddly to the brief movement of weight on the scale. It has worked for me. Put some painter's tape on the scale to keep it clean. The wife will notice!
David
You can do it with a digital scale, but it is a little more of a challenge because the scale may act oddly to the brief movement of weight on the scale. It has worked for me. Put some painter's tape on the scale to keep it clean. The wife will notice!
David
Unfortunately the bike is currently dismantled with the parts scattered to the four corners. Also I don't have all the bits that are going onto it yet.
JMC list their Norvin at 400lbs. My guesstimate would have been 420 lbs so I'll go with that unless I hear otherwise.
JMC list their Norvin at 400lbs. My guesstimate would have been 420 lbs so I'll go with that unless I hear otherwise.
What you need is the front and rear weights with you on it, anything else is only an approximation, but just out of sheer interest I've weighed mine, on it's own with a chopped motor, belt primary and Norton box and it comes out at 184lb front and 204lb rear which surprises me, I would have thought the front would have been heavier than the rear.
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We used take some bikes to the local bus depot (now long forgotten why) for weighing and they had a long plank with the scales in the middle so the bike was at the same height whichever wheel was on the scales.
The inlet ports on my bike are 30mm and I'm thinking to stick with 30mm carbs. Is there any benefit in opening everything up to 32mm, including 32mm carbs ? The bike is for road use only and I don't want to lose any bottom end or flexibility but I note that most of the new builds are using 32mm carbs. My engine will have Mk2 cams and 8.1 CR.
I was pleased with 28mm carbs, On my ex L/ning rep', I thought I would be flat out all the time, But not so,
I can still do 80 mph on 1/4 throttle, My other Bike has 36 mm Dellortos, So I am used to big carb's,
I now have 30mm on the l/ning, Mk2 Amal, But that was what came up for sale.
It's more about the state of tune of the Engine , Mine is 9 to ones, Mk2 cams, Open Armours, Exhaust.
Cheers Bill.
P.S. The spares Company Manifolds, Rubber type stub fitting, Are only about 29 mm, A bit thin to take out much more.
I can still do 80 mph on 1/4 throttle, My other Bike has 36 mm Dellortos, So I am used to big carb's,
I now have 30mm on the l/ning, Mk2 Amal, But that was what came up for sale.
It's more about the state of tune of the Engine , Mine is 9 to ones, Mk2 cams, Open Armours, Exhaust.
Cheers Bill.
P.S. The spares Company Manifolds, Rubber type stub fitting, Are only about 29 mm, A bit thin to take out much more.
But if you want 32 mm Lightning carb adaptors machined to fit the rubber mounted carbs then I can supply them in either bronze or aluminium.