New style BT-H mag

Martyn Goodwin

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Hi Rob, Yes,i will follow up , but just have not had time yet to put into words my work and thoughts on this BTH. BTH emailed that they were moving, so didn't send this unit back. I also emailed about what testing they could provide, but only recieved an email stating they were on vacation. Please dont get my posts on this subject wrong, i want this BTH to work......i like the electronic advance, stock appearance, no battery required and no ATD!
More later
Craig


With a BT-H (or any ignition system for that matter) it is VITAL that you keep the kill wire well away from the HT lead. Under NO CIRCUMSTANCES should you ever attach the kill wire to any part of the HT /spark plug lead. If you ignore this advice you will have all sorts of strange and intermittent problems with the ignition.

See this thread for more information - you need to read well into it for the complete story.

http://www.vincentownersclub.co.uk/showthread.php?5922-Poor-starting-on-new-Amal-and-BTH-Magneto

Post #23 reveals all.

Martyn
 

craig

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Thanks Martyn, is this the post? Disappointing to me there was no reply from anyone that they had found the same or that it was common practice to route the kill wire a certain way.................but 16 pages with information lost to the cloud.
Did I miss something?

Morning Gents and Ladies, I have to now admit to an EMC Fopaux that I should have known better about, since being an electrical designer on aircraft systems I have to account for this every day.....

While in the process of removing the cloth tape that holds the HT leads to the oil line on the cylinder head AND cutting a number of tape strips that held the cut-out line to the port side HT lead (which was the most inconsistent when it came to firing) for about a foot in distance (I was using the HT lead to hold the cut-out line away from the exhaust pipe and cylinder head), I then cut the kill line just in case it was shorted and I thought to myself "I'll give it one more chance before I remove the BT-H".

Low and behold, with the garage door down and in darkness for the tenth time that morning, there was sparks! thousands of them, like Zulu's.

I then went through the stages of strapping the lines back on, first the starboard HT lead, engine started, then the port HT, started, and then finally twisted the cut-out line back together and...... STARTED.


Now, after going out on the bike for the rest of the day and putting twenty miles on it, with about five first-time starts and three two-or three prodders, it got me thinking that I must have had a partial short in the kill-button. However on further reasoning and thinking how the port ignition lead had pretty much never fired, and once the kill line had been removed from it it now fired every kick, I had unfortunately created a massive EMC loop on the ignition kill switch.

What we have with the HT lead is a "very" Emmisive line in EMC terms, it's throwing out lots of electro-magnetic interference which has always been known about in the past years when TV sets would get very upset when a vehicle would go by outside with no suppression on the ignition system. While what I had strapped to it for about twelve inches was a "Susceptible" line in EMC terms (the cut-out line), which is looking for a signal (a OVDC ground line in this instance) to tell the Magneto electronics that its requirement to fire is no longer needed. What I had created was a perfect induction loop that was inducing noise down into the BT-H, which was upsetting the brain within the magneto and causing it to go mad!. Once the line was away from the HT lead, I have had no problems either since.

Hopefully that is the end of the problems, however I do have some design issues, I'm going to start a new topic on that though.......
 

rapcom

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
At least one other owner has solved his misfires and poor starting by re-routing his kill wire after hearing about Minivin's very useful post. He didn't post because he doesn't do the forum, but Minivin's informative confession will be useful to everybody for years to come.
Thanks, Rob.
 

Martyn Goodwin

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Yes – it’s the one. Since it was posted I passed the info on to BT-H and I understand theyhave or are about to amend their install instructions to include this info.

Martyn


[QUOTE=craig;43733]Thanks Martyn, is this the post? Disappointing to me there was no reply from anyone that they had found the same or that it was common practice to route the kill wire a certain way.................but 16 pages with information lost to the cloud.
Did I miss something?

Morning Gents and Ladies, I have to now admit to an EMC Fopaux that I should have known better about, since being an electrical designer on aircraft systems I have to account for this every day.....

While in the process of removing the cloth tape that holds the HT leads to the oil line on the cylinder head AND cutting a number of tape strips that held the cut-out line to the port side HT lead (which was the most inconsistent when it came to firing) for about a foot in distance (I was using the HT lead to hold the cut-out line away from the exhaust pipe and cylinder head), I then cut the kill line just in case it was shorted and I thought to myself "I'll give it one more chance before I remove the BT-H".

Low and behold, with the garage door down and in darkness for the tenth time that morning, there was sparks! thousands of them, like Zulu's.

I then went through the stages of strapping the lines back on, first the starboard HT lead, engine started, then the port HT, started, and then finally twisted the cut-out line back together and...... STARTED.


Now, after going out on the bike for the rest of the day and putting twenty miles on it, with about five first-time starts and three two-or three prodders, it got me thinking that I must have had a partial short in the kill-button. However on further reasoning and thinking how the port ignition lead had pretty much never fired, and once the kill line had been removed from it it now fired every kick, I had unfortunately created a massive EMC loop on the ignition kill switch.

What we have with the HT lead is a "very" Emmisive line in EMC terms, it's throwing out lots of electro-magnetic interference which has always been known about in the past years when TV sets would get very upset when a vehicle would go by outside with no suppression on the ignition system. While what I had strapped to it for about twelve inches was a "Susceptible" line in EMC terms (the cut-out line), which is looking for a signal (a OVDC ground line in this instance) to tell the Magneto electronics that its requirement to fire is no longer needed. What I had created was a perfect induction loop that was inducing noise down into the BT-H, which was upsetting the brain within the magneto and causing it to go mad!. Once the line was away from the HT lead, I have had no problems either since.

Hopefully that is the end of the problems, however I do have some design issues, I'm going to start a new topic on that though.......[/QUOTE]
 
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