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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
New pistons
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<blockquote data-quote="vince998" data-source="post: 16082" data-attributes="member: 261"><p>Something else to watch out for here are the later die cast muffs!!</p><p>They tend to compress on one side than on the other.</p><p>Not a problem if you bore and hone the cylyder using the top lip of the liner as a datum, but in a moment of (not uncommen) wisdom, i got my guy to use the bottom of the muff as a datum thinking this would bring the bore back to 90 degrees with the crankcase. </p><p>This it did, but moved the axis of the bore within the liner and caused clearence problems between the (in my case) exhaust valve and piston cut out. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite5" alt=":confused:" title="Confused :confused:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":confused:" /></p><p>The change in bore axis was so large that you could see it on the taper at the bottom of the inside of the liner. (the taper was smaller on one side than on the other)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="vince998, post: 16082, member: 261"] Something else to watch out for here are the later die cast muffs!! They tend to compress on one side than on the other. Not a problem if you bore and hone the cylyder using the top lip of the liner as a datum, but in a moment of (not uncommen) wisdom, i got my guy to use the bottom of the muff as a datum thinking this would bring the bore back to 90 degrees with the crankcase. This it did, but moved the axis of the bore within the liner and caused clearence problems between the (in my case) exhaust valve and piston cut out. :confused: The change in bore axis was so large that you could see it on the taper at the bottom of the inside of the liner. (the taper was smaller on one side than on the other) [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
New pistons
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