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new Amal 276 carbs for C Rapide


Forum Website User
Non-VOC Member
I just received a pair of new Amal 276 carbs for my C Rapide which I am planning to install. Any recommendations of fitting tips or set up beyond the standard settings?
The motor is of standard specification, unrestored, and has a few miles on her. Fitted with a BT-H.

Joe B.


Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member

I would strip them carefully and look for swarf and blocked holes in the jet-block. Blow them all through with compressed air. A couple of people I know have found bits inside.... They should work just great on std settings.

Peter B
Bristol, UK


Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Joe, you say you ordered the "standard settings" so after you have thoroughly cleaned them all you can do initially is play with the needle height & air screw. It may be worthwhile to look at the float bowls & make sure
the floats and needles are "standard". You may need to buy some spare main jets as modern fuels can be problematic. The type of silence you have fitted can also determine your main jet.


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Non-VOC Member
Thanks to both you and Peter for the reminder to check them and thoroughly clean before mounting. In my haste and excitement to get them on I would probably not have done so.
Cheers, Joe B.

Tom Gaynor

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
See also my two bits in MPH. The float level alters more than one might imagine if the carb isn't set at the correct angle. One degree of rotation means a 1/16" alteration in float level. The correct angle is not, as someone has suggested, vertical, but whatever angle is necessary (obtained by rotating the carb on the inlet stub) to get the float level JUST below the top edge of the bottom nut, the one that screws on to the mixing chamber.
What ought to work, but for me didn't, was to raise the float level until petrol seeped out of the hole the bottom nut nearly conceals, then to drop it until it didn't. That is however the float level the carb is designed to function at.
I'd like to claim that this insight came from sheer intellectual horsepower, but it came in fact from Sid Biberman, who gave me the clue about float level setting being significant, and Burlens (who make them) telling me what it ought to be. (They were also able to tell me what the threads were, when I needed to make a mount for an air filter on another bike.)
It needs also to be said that before I set them my bike ran OK, and the float levels were 1/2" apart. It did however run, although not as well as it does now they are 1) the same and 2) correct.
For information, my 289's are running 180 main jets (down, in stages, from 210's), #4 slides, and the needle in the middle slot. The plugs, NGK 6's, are sooty when I pull them after stopping normally (i.e. not a plug chop) but white underneath. Since race bikes are run so the plugs are "dark white", and I can ride the Vin 200 miles at 60-80 mph with no problems, I think they're about right.
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