Mk2 amal flooding

roy the mechanic

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the majority of flooding problems are caused by debris(sh-t) usually from a 60year old tank, or the sealant coming loose. my rap runs mk 2's with in line filters has not flooded in 3 years regular(hard) use.
 

vince998

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the majority of flooding problems are caused by debris(sh-t) usually from a 60year old tank, or the sealant coming loose. my rap runs mk 2's with in line filters has not flooded in 3 years regular(hard) use.

Hello All,
I´m not sure if this is applicable to MKIIs, but i had the same problem on my MKIs.
After a tip from Russel Kemp, i trimmed the "ears" or "tabs" that hold the float pin in place, back flush with the pin casting.
The tabs protruded quite a bit past the casting and appeared to stop the float rising all the way.
Whilst i had it all apart, i trimmed the gasket inner back to fit flush with the float boal face. The new gaskets appear to be very generously dimensioned.
Why this problem set in after a while and not straight away i´m not sure, but worth watching out for.
 

john998

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Thanks to all for replies, the problem is fixed for the minute, moving the seat sorted it.
Vince998 is correct about the ears on the float bowl gasket, removing them cured the other cab of flooding.
It was the first thing I did when the other one started misbehaving, but to no avail in this case.
Not sure if the ears are intentional left long, so the float has to pivot on the pin so avoiding the bowl wearing.
With the ears in place if the float is tight on the pin it will flood. Regards John.
 

vince998

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Thanks to all for replies, the problem is fixed for the minute, moving the seat sorted it.
Vince998 is correct about the ears on the float bowl gasket, removing them cured the other cab of flooding.
It was the first thing I did when the other one started misbehaving, but to no avail in this case.
Not sure if the ears are intentional left long, so the float has to pivot on the pin so avoiding the bowl wearing.
With the ears in place if the float is tight on the pin it will flood. Regards John.

Hi John,
Sorry, i didn´t explain myself very well.
I didn´t remove them completely, i just trimmed the overhanging material back flush with the float boal casting. this allowed the float to rise fully (the gasket material was just catching on the front of the float?)
I think removing the tabs completely will allow the pin to rise and fall in its recess buggering up the fuel level completely?
To overcome the float sticking on the pin, i just polished it. Seems free enough.
 

john998

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Hello, After further thought I suspect tha the ears on the float bowl gasket are meant to trap the float spindle.
This to prevent wear on the bowl. Perhaps the problem is just that the latest petrol causes the plastic that the float is made
of to swell and stick on the spindle. Thus removing the ears cures the problem but may cause others later. John.
 

1660bob

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For those of us running Monobloc carbs (apologies if you`ve heard this one)- the new ones have a plastic float on which the mould line flashing can wedge on the body of the carb, especially when you force the float down when tickling.Inside the float chamber there is a cylindrical boss to accomodate the thread for one of the cover screws , the float can wedge on this before it sits on its limiting stop at the bottom of the chamber-clean off the flash with emery over a file, give the float a good scrub in the sink to remove any emery dust and refit checking for clearence-bingo! sorted! Bob C
 

christulin

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Non-VOC Member
I have heard that the new floats are softer and more likely to flex. Older floats were less likely to do this and are worth a try, too.
 
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