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Miller D6 Dynamo/Lucas Regulator Wiring

Pharquarx

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Spent the weekend installing the new wiring loom that I got from VOC Spares on my 1950 Comet. The fit is excellent and even though the wiring diagrams and instructions and the references that I have (Richardson, Riders Handbook, et al) seem to be contradictory, I think I figured out this MES (Mysterious Electrical Stuff), at least for the front of the bike.

When it comes to the Miller D6 Dynamo and the Lucas Regulator, I am not so sure. The Dynamo has two terminals under the end cover, labeled D and F, not three as shown on the wiring diagram in the references. I wired these two outputs to the D and F terminals respectively on the Lucas Regulator. On the Lucas Regulator, there are four terminals, labeled D, F, A, and E. D and F we discussed previously, E I assume is for ground (earth) and A is, I am assuming the output from the regulator to the bike's electrical system. This is consistent with the home made loom that I removed.

Am I ok with this?

Thanks,
Charlie
 

Pharquarx

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Ok, this is what I found, and firstly, thanks for the posted and private message inputs, you guys are great. The Miller dynamo has been converted for the Lucas Regulator, glad to hear that is a modification in the right direction. In "Know Thy Beast", way back in the back of the book in Appendix IV, the answer is, under paragraph 18. I will now refer to this as MBES (Mysterious British Electrical Stuff).
Looks like I have done it right, will fire it up in about two weeks and onto the California roads in this beautiful weather we are having.
Thanks again.
 

CollingsBob

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
If I may be so bold...
When you get it working properly..start saving up for an Alton..I converted my Miller and purchased a JG unit 25 years ago...and since then I have purchased and used a number of conversion units with varying degrees of success... Recently I realised that over the last 25 years I have not had one riding season where the lights worked for the entire season. I will be the very first to state that electrics confound me and that most of my problems are self-inflicted...but the simple facts are that we are dealing with equipment that was at its best 55-60 years ago...Technology has come a long way. The Alton is magnificent kit and its reputation is stellar.
 

lindie

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
If I may be so bold...
When you get it working properly..start saving up for an Alton..I converted my Miller and purchased a JG unit 25 years ago...and since then I have purchased and used a number of conversion units with varying degrees of success... Recently I realised that over the last 25 years I have not had one riding season where the lights worked for the entire season. I will be the very first to state that electrics confound me and that most of my problems are self-inflicted...but the simple facts are that we are dealing with equipment that was at its best 55-60 years ago...Technology has come a long way. The Alton is magnificent kit and its reputation is stellar.


out of interest, do the altons or mcdouglators come in a form also applicable to my 3.5 inch dynamo 49 model cases or am i stuck with a eccentric sleeve cradle as the mounting option?
 

CollingsBob

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
The Alton is a 12v alternator...90 watts...I like the "look" of the unit which is very very similar to a Lucas or a Miller...They are not cheap...but they do work..There are a number of 12v alternator units out there..VOC spares sells the Alton..
 

CollingsBob

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
You're very welcome...There are many folks who like the McDouglator - and all of them know more than I do about the matter..
All I did was ask around to see who liked what..I am very pleased with the Alton..the packaging and instructions are very professional - but please..don't take my word as gospel as that would be doing a disservice to other manufacturers of very good units.
The important thing is that Miller & Lucas can be replaced with reliable units that will provide modern levels of electricity
 

Pharquarx

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Thanks guys, this is good information to know. I am not adverse to upgrading to modern Mysterious Electrical Stuff. When I got my Comet, it had points and coil ignition and the PO even included the original magneto, still in working condition. At the recommendation of a Vincent owner here in California, I opted to upgrade to a bt-h magneto. While not installed yet - I need my parts shipment from VOC Spares which includes a new oil filter cartridge - I am really looking forward to making that installation and the upgraded performance. I will keep the Alton in mind, just in case the Miller (and the Lucas Regulator) goes to their heavenly rewards sooner rather than later.
 

peterg

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Howdy Charlie,

You didn't mention whether that Lucas reg was electronic or continuation of the rather inefficient mechanical type regulator. Here in the U.S., you can install a PODtronics electronic regulator from Bob Kizer. It infinitely varies the ground on your field coils controlling output to such an efficient degree little/no heat results such that you can install it in a stock Miller regulator cover (he includes mounting plate) without need for ventilation. Simple instructions for wiring your D6 are included with this unit.

I have installed 8 of these units on my machines over the last 15 years controlling everything from various American Autolite generators as fitted to Indians to the E3L on the Red Rap in my sig below to the latest Shadow for which I assembled a D6 from 3 cores. Have never had a failure with any of them.

The most prominant benefit of fitting one is efficiency - some mechanical regulators can draw up to 3 amps - which is critical when you're talking about these generators hard pressed to provide 8 amps at the A terminal without excessive heat build. This D6 now zero's the ammeter at only 32mph on a 24/36W Miller bulb headlight and highly recommended VOC Spares LED tailight conversion (PR19LED/1/6v) using a rather tall 46 tooth rear sprocket. The customary Indian made 8amp lead acid battery has sufficient head room for city/urban riding with no issues with a magneto fitted. For which you're going to be delighted with B-TH with electronic advance. Its' a stupendous improvement over any Lucas & ATD setup.
 

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Pharquarx

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Good morning all. Thanks for the additional input. To answer the one question about the Lucas Regulator on my Comet, it is the old mechanical type. It was working when I got the bike and there is no reason to assume that it won't when I restart the bike (I got my parts from VOC Spares yesterday, so full speed ahead this weekend!!!). Having alternate and improved electrical strategies is always of interest to me with vintage machinery, so thanks for the input on the regulator, lights and also the positive feedback on the bt-h magneto. What about improving the front light?

P.S. I am going to Arizona today to pick up a fully restored 1970 Triumph Bonneville T120R. Can I still be part of the VOC - is there any great animosity between the two - the Comet will still be my favorite.....................

P.P.S. - Peter, how do you recommend attaching the degree wheel to the crankshaft? I can't quite make it out from the photo, and obviously it is something that I need to do next.
 
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CollingsBob

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Many folks in the VOC have several bikes of different brands..so no worries ( in my humble opinion..) of also being a Triumph owner..

With regard to the front headlight..I use a 12v sealed beam..
 

peterg

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Howdy Charlie,

I attach via a tapered hard plastic shaft inserted in the oil orifice of the shaft with a rather firm sleeve of rubber to enable slight adjustment of the wheel to achieve zero degree reference points for calculating.

Lights? Primary question is (appearance of originality) and secondary whether you've got a US (sealed beam) or ROW model (bulb type). On the former, nothing looks like the original GE 3044 sealed beam originally fitted....nor would you particular care to fit one again as they pull big amps for their dismal output. I'd look at a 6V halogen non sealed beam replacement and I've had good luck with one in the past from Vech at Bench Mark Works.

On the bulb type, a chap advertises a very reasonably priced 36/36W(?) halogen retrofit for your standard 24/36W but he's located in England. As I was delighted at how bright the standard one is when installed in a reflector in reasonably good shape on a plain fluted lense, haven't bothered to followup on that.

Last thing. If you live in a DRL state and want to spare your speedo and tailight from constant useage, if you've got the original type 4 position Miller switch, you can run headlight only off your "CH" terminal.
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
If you fit one of my and Dick Sherwin's car alternator kits, which does not look standard but also does not require anything to be butchered, then you can use a modern 12 volt quartz halogen bulb. I recommend 130/90 watt bulbs for twins. You have to use either a larger headlamp shell or one of those tapered chromed headlamp rims which used to be available to allow 7" units to be fitted to our 6.5" shells. You need to ensure that your dip switch is up to the job. Cost of the kit is about half that of a McDougalator. Enjoy whatever you end up with. :)
 

john998

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hello, the Miller has been good to me. First converted to a Lucas and then an electronic regulator. Over the last 40 years other than occasional clean out it has been faultless.
If you cover lots of dark miles then an alternator is a good idea, other than that keep it original.
 

peterg

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Howdy John,

Couldn't agree more. Years ago when I restored the Red Rap in my sig, took one look at the dusty box containing the neglected remains of 3 diminutive D6's and just eased it on up into the attic. Got the larger E3L, converted to electronic reg and moved on.

With this Shadow purchase October came a D6 and a rather enterprising mech reg on a large pedestal - almost the size of the genie itself - that must have been the "solution" back in 1977 when this machine was last ridden. Disassembly revealed it to be fine except missing several balls out of the drive side bearing, someone had attempted to remove. Remembered those carcasses languishing in the attic, fetched them down for disassembly to get a bearing to discover one not only had 2 superb examples, but they were affixed to an NOS armature. That sorta changed everything, scratched that Alton off my VOCS trinket list and thought I'd give this unit exactly one go, to be replaced by an Alton/E3L at the first hiccup.

Well, that was 900 miles ago of predominantly city/urban riding and a fair amount at night. The bane of genie's in a Vin application (and the cause of only non-charging situation on my Rap) is the motor trying to breathe through the primary and finally the generator if you've very effectively sealed the housing abutting the primary as I have. It oils up the brushes. With a rear cylinder exhaust adjuster cap pcv based breather fitted, that propensity has been subdued significantly.
 

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