I helped the late Nick Wingrove to convert to a Bright Spark and he found it satisfactory so why the differences I do not know.
Magnetoman has had a lot to say about condensers for magnetos. He's studied this a lot and is unimpressed with the Brightspark Easy Cap. I can't remember where to find his postings.
Paul
It's too late to affect your decision, but if you remove the armature to snip the capacitor lead you'll have wasted the money you just spent having it remagnetized. Any time you remove the armature the magnetization suffers a significant permanent -- permanent, that is, unless it is remagnetized -- drop in the magnetization.I do also have a replacement capacitor to go in the rotor but thought I would try the Easy Cap. I am getting the body re - magnetised at Armoto this afternoon so will see how that works first.
The issue with remagnetizing is all about how hard you will have to kick the bike to start it. Even an extremely weak magnet will generate sufficient voltage for a spark, if the magneto spins fast enough, but that will be well past how fast someone can possibly kick it with an older "steel magnet" magneto from the pre-1930s. Alnico is more forgiving, but the effect is still present. .the magneto that I helped Nick Wingrove with was not remagnetised after fitting the BrightSpark capacitor and worked satisfactorily for several years afterwards.
A £13/£16/$35 (I found different prices on line) Brightspark requires the armature to be removed when the first one is installed in order to snip the lead to the existing capacitor. After that, if the magneto is re-magnetized, factory-fresh functioning will be restored, at least until/if that capacitor fails. The advantage a Brightspark has if/when it does fail is it can be replaced on the side of the road with another of the £13/£16/$35 capacitors.carry a spare BrightSpark capacitor. They are so small that one wil fit into any pocket and I know that on one occassion Nick had to replace his by the side of the road.