ET: Engine (Twin) Loctite

Bazlerker

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Non-VOC Member
I have a butane powered soldering iron that I use for softening the red loctite that Yamaha uses, pointlessly, on almost every bloody fastener on my FJR1300ES.. A couple of minutes of solid contact is all it takes.
 

oexing

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VOC Member
It is no point to use a solvent for threads, it would take days to reach into windings. For remains of case sealants/gaskets you could use their gasket removers in spray cans. But my guess this is not much different to paint strippers of the more aggressive types you get nowadays . So this is what I take to soften gasket remains and a bit of scraper or the like works well enough.

Vic
 

Peter Holmes

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VOC Member
Martyn, The spec sheet does not mention that SF790 has any effect on Loctite products, only that it will soften and remove old gasket material.
 

Martyn Goodwin

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Non-VOC Member
Martyn, The spec sheet does not mention that SF790 has any effect on Loctite products, only that it will soften and remove old gasket material.
Here is a screen grab from the spec sheet. Loctite thread sealants/lockers are anaerobic materials. I have Chisel, I have used it, it works on loctite. Be warned, it also attacks the seals in sealed bearings.

1623898146442.png
 

Bill Thomas

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VOC Member
Len , It really is very easy to remove and replace the gears, Even I can do it,
You must have seen the damage a loose camplate pin does, We don't want that !.
I say leave well alone.
As Bruce says, If you must take it out, You could make up a slotted thing with a hole in the middle,
You could screw a bolt down the middle to stop the screw driver thingy from coming out.
Cheers Bill.
 

brian gains

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VOC Member
The funny thing is, that I was looking for a reliable sealant for my petrol cock threads for quite some time and never found something that was satisfying. Standard Curil is oftentimes advertised for such purposes here in Germany, but I wasnt really happy with that. Then I was studying Loctite Data Sheets for a completely different reason and found, that most are claimed to be petrol resistant. Next thing was to try it with the cocks and it turned out to be the the best stuff I ever had.
I've always used a cake of soap rubbed it into the threads , was told to do this yonks ago by an old timer and seems to work. Or he may be looking down having a chuckle.
Back to the topic, heat guns can be bought that chuck out an incredible amount of reasonably directed heat, always ago to when I don't / can't use a naked flame torch.
 

Len Matthews

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VOC Member
As we cannot know what type of Loctite was used you may have to go to 300 degrees C till strength gets low enough to undo the bolt. But really I´d leave the bolt and do assembly with it in place, not a big problem. I bolted this camplate shaft up onto a flat in the case with a shoulder on it to float the camplate over the selector forks not touching them. Yes, possibly you cannot get all gearbox components out from the bolted up engine - but who needs to when assembly was done as it should. No or most unit construction engines are made for this feature. So why . . . .

Vic
View attachment 42978

Len , It really is very easy to remove and replace the gears, Even I can do it,
You must have seen the damage a loose camplate pin does, We don't want that !.
I say leave well alone.
As Bruce says, If you must take it out, You could make up a slotted thing with a hole in the middle,
You could screw a bolt down the middle to stop the screw driver thingy from coming out.
Cheers Bill.
Bill, I've just made a tool as you describe,just got to get the thing hot enough and pray!
 
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