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Can anyone advise a method of freeing a component that's been loctited? Is heat the only way? Or is there a solvent that would soften the damn stuff?
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The item in question is the gearbox camplate spindle.I know that some.clever people can assemble the box with the spindle in place but I would rather remove it if possible.I agree with Vic. I have found heat to be very useful in this context but, like Vic writes, a picture of what is stuck to what would help.
The funny thing is, that I was looking for a reliable sealant for my petrol cock threads for quite some time and never found something that was satisfying. Standard Curil is oftentimes advertised for such purposes here in Germany, but I wasnt really happy with that. Then I was studying Loctite Data Sheets for a completely different reason and found, that most are claimed to be petrol resistant. Next thing was to try it with the cocks and it turned out to be the the best stuff I ever had.You mean there is something that 95 octane +10% ethanol cant melt
Loctite do produce a solvent that they claim works - its called "Chisel" and is super aggressive - keep it away from skin and paint. It's a nitromethane blend. Also, to my horror I found it melted the seals in sealed bearings. Use with extreme careNo solvent for Loctites, heat is only way to lower strength. That is why I recommend at all times to think before, usually the LOW strength types will do, like 221 or 222 . These are comparable to nylocs for nuts. Would you post a photo of your problem ?
Here is a screen grab from the spec sheet. Loctite thread sealants/lockers are anaerobic materials. I have Chisel, I have used it, it works on loctite. Be warned, it also attacks the seals in sealed bearings.Martyn, The spec sheet does not mention that SF790 has any effect on Loctite products, only that it will soften and remove old gasket material.
I've always used a cake of soap rubbed it into the threads , was told to do this yonks ago by an old timer and seems to work. Or he may be looking down having a chuckle.The funny thing is, that I was looking for a reliable sealant for my petrol cock threads for quite some time and never found something that was satisfying. Standard Curil is oftentimes advertised for such purposes here in Germany, but I wasnt really happy with that. Then I was studying Loctite Data Sheets for a completely different reason and found, that most are claimed to be petrol resistant. Next thing was to try it with the cocks and it turned out to be the the best stuff I ever had.
As we cannot know what type of Loctite was used you may have to go to 300 degrees C till strength gets low enough to undo the bolt. But really I´d leave the bolt and do assembly with it in place, not a big problem. I bolted this camplate shaft up onto a flat in the case with a shoulder on it to float the camplate over the selector forks not touching them. Yes, possibly you cannot get all gearbox components out from the bolted up engine - but who needs to when assembly was done as it should. No or most unit construction engines are made for this feature. So why . . . .
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Bill, I've just made a tool as you describe,just got to get the thing hot enough and pray!Len , It really is very easy to remove and replace the gears, Even I can do it,
You must have seen the damage a loose camplate pin does, We don't want that !.
I say leave well alone.
As Bruce says, If you must take it out, You could make up a slotted thing with a hole in the middle,
You could screw a bolt down the middle to stop the screw driver thingy from coming out.