• Welcome to the website of the Vincent H.R.D. Owners Club.

    Should you have any questions relating to the Vincent H.R.D. Owners Club, or Vincent H.R.D. motorcycles in general, please contact Graham Smith, Hon. Editor and Webmaster by calling 07977 001 025 or please CLICK HERE.

    You are unrecognised, and therefore, only have VERY restricted access to the many features of this website.

    If you have previously registered to use this forum, you should log in now. CLICK HERE.

    If you have never registered to use this website before, please CLICK HERE.

ET: Engine (Twin) Loctite

Len Matthews

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Can anyone advise a method of freeing a component that's been loctited? Is heat the only way? Or is there a solvent that would soften the damn stuff?
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
No solvent for Loctites, heat is only way to lower strength. That is why I recommend at all times to think before, usually the LOW strength types will do, like 221 or 222 . These are comparable to nylocs for nuts. Would you post a photo of your problem ?

Vic
 

Len Matthews

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I agree with Vic. I have found heat to be very useful in this context but, like Vic writes, a picture of what is stuck to what would help.
The item in question is the gearbox camplate spindle.I know that some.clever people can assemble the box with the spindle in place but I would rather remove it if possible.
 

MarBl

Website User
VOC Member
You mean there is something that 95 octane +10% ethanol cant melt
The funny thing is, that I was looking for a reliable sealant for my petrol cock threads for quite some time and never found something that was satisfying. Standard Curil is oftentimes advertised for such purposes here in Germany, but I wasnt really happy with that. Then I was studying Loctite Data Sheets for a completely different reason and found, that most are claimed to be petrol resistant. Next thing was to try it with the cocks and it turned out to be the the best stuff I ever had.
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Len, if the slot for a screw driver is in good order in the top of the spindle the way I would tackle it is as follows. Find a decent quality impact screw driver where one of the bits is a really good fit in the slot. All you will be using is the screw driver bit and its holder. All the ones I have seen fit into a half inch socket set. Get a ratchet handle and fit the screw driver bit and test it for 'fit'. You can then get a small gas heater and play the flame around the spindle and surrounding aluminium. The aluminium will conduct the heat away very efficiently so play most of the heat onto the spindle. Once you think it is hot enough try with the leverage of the ratchet handle on the screw drive bit. If it does not move at first keep applying the heat and it will eventually give way.

If the slot in the spindle is worn or otherwise malformed then you need to set up something to push the screw driver bit down into the spindle slot to hold it in there while you turn. If you have to resort to this then you might not be able to use a ratchet handle but use a 'T' handle pushed to one end. You need lots of leverage to get it going. If you go down this route and can be sure that the screw driver bit cannot escape upwards you can use a hammer on the end of the 'T' handle to tap it to start the movement. Good luck with it.

Remember the old adage; never let anything mechanical know you are in a rush. Sneak up on it and take it by surprise.
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
As we cannot know what type of Loctite was used you may have to go to 300 degrees C till strength gets low enough to undo the bolt. But really I´d leave the bolt and do assembly with it in place, not a big problem. I bolted this camplate shaft up onto a flat in the case with a shoulder on it to float the camplate over the selector forks not touching them. Yes, possibly you cannot get all gearbox components out from the bolted up engine - but who needs to when assembly was done as it should. No or most unit construction engines are made for this feature. So why . . . .

Vic
P1070634.JPG
 

Martyn Goodwin

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
No solvent for Loctites, heat is only way to lower strength. That is why I recommend at all times to think before, usually the LOW strength types will do, like 221 or 222 . These are comparable to nylocs for nuts. Would you post a photo of your problem ?

Vic
Loctite do produce a solvent that they claim works - its called "Chisel" and is super aggressive - keep it away from skin and paint. It's a nitromethane blend. Also, to my horror I found it melted the seals in sealed bearings. Use with extreme care
 
Last edited:

Bazlerker

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I have a butane powered soldering iron that I use for softening the red loctite that Yamaha uses, pointlessly, on almost every bloody fastener on my FJR1300ES.. A couple of minutes of solid contact is all it takes.
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
It is no point to use a solvent for threads, it would take days to reach into windings. For remains of case sealants/gaskets you could use their gasket removers in spray cans. But my guess this is not much different to paint strippers of the more aggressive types you get nowadays . So this is what I take to soften gasket remains and a bit of scraper or the like works well enough.

Vic
 

Martyn Goodwin

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Martyn, The spec sheet does not mention that SF790 has any effect on Loctite products, only that it will soften and remove old gasket material.
Here is a screen grab from the spec sheet. Loctite thread sealants/lockers are anaerobic materials. I have Chisel, I have used it, it works on loctite. Be warned, it also attacks the seals in sealed bearings.

1623898146442.png
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Len , It really is very easy to remove and replace the gears, Even I can do it,
You must have seen the damage a loose camplate pin does, We don't want that !.
I say leave well alone.
As Bruce says, If you must take it out, You could make up a slotted thing with a hole in the middle,
You could screw a bolt down the middle to stop the screw driver thingy from coming out.
Cheers Bill.
 

brian gains

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
The funny thing is, that I was looking for a reliable sealant for my petrol cock threads for quite some time and never found something that was satisfying. Standard Curil is oftentimes advertised for such purposes here in Germany, but I wasnt really happy with that. Then I was studying Loctite Data Sheets for a completely different reason and found, that most are claimed to be petrol resistant. Next thing was to try it with the cocks and it turned out to be the the best stuff I ever had.
I've always used a cake of soap rubbed it into the threads , was told to do this yonks ago by an old timer and seems to work. Or he may be looking down having a chuckle.
Back to the topic, heat guns can be bought that chuck out an incredible amount of reasonably directed heat, always ago to when I don't / can't use a naked flame torch.
 

Len Matthews

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
As we cannot know what type of Loctite was used you may have to go to 300 degrees C till strength gets low enough to undo the bolt. But really I´d leave the bolt and do assembly with it in place, not a big problem. I bolted this camplate shaft up onto a flat in the case with a shoulder on it to float the camplate over the selector forks not touching them. Yes, possibly you cannot get all gearbox components out from the bolted up engine - but who needs to when assembly was done as it should. No or most unit construction engines are made for this feature. So why . . . .

Vic
View attachment 42978

Len , It really is very easy to remove and replace the gears, Even I can do it,
You must have seen the damage a loose camplate pin does, We don't want that !.
I say leave well alone.
As Bruce says, If you must take it out, You could make up a slotted thing with a hole in the middle,
You could screw a bolt down the middle to stop the screw driver thingy from coming out.
Cheers Bill.
Bill, I've just made a tool as you describe,just got to get the thing hot enough and pray!
 

Latest Forum Threads

Can't Find What You Need?

Buyer Beware: Fake or Real?

The Mighty Garage Videos

List of Forum Categories

Top