Loctite of the ages

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Sakura

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Whilst I am sure that puller is ok normally, it strikes me if you changed the centre bolt to a larger fine thread with a ball bearing in the centre you could get a lot more pressure. Add a good heavy blow on the bolt and it should move.
 

oexing

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Two male extractor threads like here in the flywheel would be standard like in all classic BMWs. Don´t try to pull the flywheel just by tightening the two bolts after fabricating a fat bridge plate with through holes for said bolts. Your large plate is too soft for purpose. Place the nut on the crank end with a millimeter gap to the flywheel so it will not jump at you when it comes free with a bang of a good hammer blow. The fat bridge plate shall sit on the crank end or a spacer there when you torque down both bolts onto the bridge. Next find a decent hammer and hit the bridge in the middle so the shock will shift the flywheel with a jump . I don´t think you need any other ways to disassemble. What engine is it anyway ?

Vic
 

vibrac

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Oexing I have done all that in fact it was the strength of the two 5/16 cap screws that finally persuaded me to stop and move to using the 6 periferal studs at present I am beefing up disc and length of extractor thread and buyin a lot of propane canisters
Good call on BMW it's a post war Douglas engine horizontal flat twin it was a Douglas engine BMW copied way back in the early 20th that started BMW in motorcycles
 

greg brillus

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no different to breaking a large ball joint, Load up the flywheel with the puller using the two threads next to the center, and do up the center bolt nice and firm but not rip the threads out.........Heat it up as best you can. Then with a brass or alloy drift, and a good sized hammer, give the flywheel a few sharp blows towards the outer edge.......it will soon break free.
 

Bill Thomas

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I think Tim is overthinking it !, I know I do, The older I get I see more problems. Just started my L/ning for the first time this year, Hope to go for a short one, Shaking like a leaf !.
 

oexing

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I´d think the strength of the two 5/16 " bolts should do for putting a good load on the crank end for freeing the flywheel by a decent hammer blow on the fat bridge sitting on the crank end. No need to overstress the bolts, the hammer does it most likely . Vincenteers seem to be less used to that type of taper joints on big dynamo rotors, chain sprockets or clutch centers on taper gear shafts. Most times the puller alone will not do it, it is the hammer blow on preloaded components to crack the lot free with a bang. So keep a fixing nut or bolt in there loosely to protect yourself from getting hit by the flying part. A short rigid bridge plate fixed with the two bolts will not bend the flywheel like the large plate would.

Vic
 

oexing

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No success yet ? Below photos of an R 69 S flywheel and "puller" plate. The bolts are too long, not suitable as I´d need M 10x1 fine thread bolts for the wheel , must be somewhere I don´t remember right now. But please notice, you do NOT want a central thrust bolt in the puller plate as you cannot do a direct hit on the plate then. Instead get some steel spacer under the plate or have it sit directly on the end of the crank mainshaft and two short bolts for getting a decent load on the crank by screwing them down at max. torque. So in this preloaded condition hit the plate with a one pound steel hammer directly, no brass or alu between as this would dampen the shock from the steel hammer. I am quite sure it will do the trick.

Vic

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