Titch Allen talked of problematic old big-ends being treated with (I think) sal ammoniac) on the tapers so that the corroded together with the tapers in the flywheels to stop them moving. I don't know how true this was but that would probably make anything difficult to dismantle. Titch knew all the old dodges and bodges.
Loctite of the ages
- Thread starter vibrac
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Vibrac,
can you post some pictures of the flywheel and crank end ? Maybe we come to some ideas then. I would not think anybody puts Loctite on tapers, silly idea really. I´d try a massive hammer on the crank end with some protective spacer or so - photos please. But first you have to put a good force from a sturdy puller on the assembly - plus a good blow onto the crank. The size of the hammer is critical, the bigger the crank halves the bigger the hammer. You really need a good impulse from the hammer . Maybe cut two substantial threads in the external flywheel near the hub and a massive bridge over the crank end for a powerfull puller - plus the hammer blow for sure.
Vic
can you post some pictures of the flywheel and crank end ? Maybe we come to some ideas then. I would not think anybody puts Loctite on tapers, silly idea really. I´d try a massive hammer on the crank end with some protective spacer or so - photos please. But first you have to put a good force from a sturdy puller on the assembly - plus a good blow onto the crank. The size of the hammer is critical, the bigger the crank halves the bigger the hammer. You really need a good impulse from the hammer . Maybe cut two substantial threads in the external flywheel near the hub and a massive bridge over the crank end for a powerfull puller - plus the hammer blow for sure.
Vic
Or on the side of My type tool.
Harley Davidson recommended RC40 Loctite for some of their crankpins. Takes a long time to cure so you can beat the flywheels back and forth for about 3 hours.
Here is the problem
My next stage is to make a new 3/4"extractor center screw and use the head of the old screw to form a new threaded boss welded to the plate to increase the length of the thread in the plate (I knew just a plate thread was marginal but I thought it was worth a try since it was a quantum improvement on the standard method which involves just two 5/16 extractor studs the holes (these can be seen near the center boss/crankshaft end) I will also step up the preheating and employ a sharp tap or two. if that fails I shall have a long think. more next week....
My next stage is to make a new 3/4"extractor center screw and use the head of the old screw to form a new threaded boss welded to the plate to increase the length of the thread in the plate (I knew just a plate thread was marginal but I thought it was worth a try since it was a quantum improvement on the standard method which involves just two 5/16 extractor studs the holes (these can be seen near the center boss/crankshaft end) I will also step up the preheating and employ a sharp tap or two. if that fails I shall have a long think. more next week....
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Maybe drill a pair of big holes in the alloy case, One each side To give it big Knock ! From the back ?.
While using the puller as well.
While using the puller as well.
Ah thats the stuff Bill! thinking outside the box. I am not about to drill holes (yet!) but its given me an extra idea there is a small access cover on the side to the clutch operating mech I think a small copper drift in there might upset a few interfaces along with everything else. Vincents or not, Thankfully there are a few horny handed engineers on here. Thanks
Are those 2 holes close to the centre for a puller ?,
I wonder if the metal is not too hard if you could drill them out and rethread to take bigger puller bolts ?.
I wonder if the metal is not too hard if you could drill them out and rethread to take bigger puller bolts ?.
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