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Loctite of the ages

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vibrac

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I have a non Vincent engine with a large fly wheel on a taper its been there for circa 35 years at least. The securing nut was loose when I removed it and so the flywheel was obviously secure in use without the nut (there is a woodruff key involved according to the parts list). So far the flywheel has resisted all attempts to remove it. and that includes extractors with 6 fixing points and 3/4" central extractor and a rattle gun. (I have run through the gamut of fluids sharp taps and leaving overnight)
It is the mass of the flywheel that has prevented me applying a lot of heat, I am now wondering whether locktite is playing a part in the scenario (Ahgh!) what loctites were available in the mid eighties? and what temperature do they need to cook and loose their hold?
 

Bill Thomas

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Have you any of the Car half shaft hydraulic pullers, They did about three sizes, A sort of cone shape went
on the wheel nuts / flange.
That's what I used on my Comet.
I think I had to grind a bit out of the side for some reason.
 

bmetcalf

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When Steve Hamel tried to press one axle of my crank out of the flywheel, his press wasn't enough. He ended up boring out the shaft a bit to weaken it and yield to the press.
 

vibrac

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Its pull off the external flywheel I need not push and the taper is part of the crankshaft inside the crankcase and its all a bit hens teeth I just wondered if its possible loctite was smeared on the taper!!!
 

Vincent Brake

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So go to 150-200 degree.
Locktite comes weak.
But maybe a quick intens heat arround by oxy bruner might do a good job.

Maybe cool with water, (hot)
Than heat again.
Its all down to the f@#king little micro movements that do yhe trick.
 

passenger0_0

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VOC Member
The flywheel is probably held by a tapered shaft. During normal operating the flywheel might have got warm and moved up on the tapered shaft, effectively making it tighter on the taper when cold.
My suggestion is to warm the flywheel over an extended period while a puller attempts to withdraw it from the taper. Using force here could bend the shaft.
 

ketelbinkie

New Website User
VOC Member
vibrac, vincents trick will do the job ,but if you have the puller on it put the nut on it as well ,just for 3 or 4 turns
(if possible).
if the flywheel gets off ,it will do it whit a big bang ,the nut will than prevent it for flying off.
 

Mike 40M

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There was a couple of Loctite products in the eighties. Don't remember what types. (Loctite appeared in 1956)
The taper could have rusted. Best would be to heat and if you happens to have a bucket of liquid nitrigen pour some on the shaft. Maybe a bit hard to get that stuff though. Could be that vets have some, as it it is used for transporting sperm for cattle insemination.
 

BigEd

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Titch Allen talked of problematic old big-ends being treated with (I think) sal ammoniac) on the tapers so that the corroded together with the tapers in the flywheels to stop them moving. I don't know how true this was but that would probably make anything difficult to dismantle. Titch knew all the old dodges and bodges.
 

oexing

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Vibrac,
can you post some pictures of the flywheel and crank end ? Maybe we come to some ideas then. I would not think anybody puts Loctite on tapers, silly idea really. I´d try a massive hammer on the crank end with some protective spacer or so - photos please. But first you have to put a good force from a sturdy puller on the assembly - plus a good blow onto the crank. The size of the hammer is critical, the bigger the crank halves the bigger the hammer. You really need a good impulse from the hammer . Maybe cut two substantial threads in the external flywheel near the hub and a massive bridge over the crank end for a powerfull puller - plus the hammer blow for sure.

Vic
 

BigEd

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VOC Forum Moderator
Lots of pressure applied with a good strong puller will sometimes struggle to release tight-fitting parts but as Vic says, the shock of a blow with a hammer on the end of the extractor thread will often do the trick.
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
I would not think anybody puts Loctite on tapers, silly idea really.
Vic
Harley Davidson recommended RC40 Loctite for some of their crankpins. Takes a long time to cure so you can beat the flywheels back and forth for about 3 hours.
 

vibrac

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VOC Member
Here is the problem
My next stage is to make a new 3/4"extractor center screw and use the head of the old screw to form a new threaded boss welded to the plate to increase the length of the thread in the plate (I knew just a plate thread was marginal but I thought it was worth a try since it was a quantum improvement on the standard method which involves just two 5/16 extractor studs the holes (these can be seen near the center boss/crankshaft end) I will also step up the preheating and employ a sharp tap or two. if that fails I shall have a long think. more next week....
1595925066843.jpeg
 

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Bill Thomas

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Maybe drill a pair of big holes in the alloy case, One each side To give it big Knock ! From the back ?.
While using the puller as well.
 

vibrac

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Maybe drill a pair of big holes in the alloy case, One each side To give it big Knock ! From the back ?.
While using the puller as well.
Ah thats the stuff Bill! thinking outside the box. I am not about to drill holes (yet!) but its given me an extra idea there is a small access cover on the side to the clutch operating mech I think a small copper drift in there might upset a few interfaces along with everything else. Vincents or not, Thankfully there are a few horny handed engineers on here. Thanks
 

Bill Thomas

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Are those 2 holes close to the centre for a puller ?,
I wonder if the metal is not too hard if you could drill them out and rethread to take bigger puller bolts ?.
 

Cyborg

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Some Loctite is good for 450f, so heating to 500f (260C) is necessary.
 
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