Limited tyre choice C Rapide

danno

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Ok thanks. I'll have a look for the Riders Handbook. Not sure if I've got that. I do have 'Know Thy Beast' and the Paul Richardson book
but I don't think these don't include the wheel removal proceedure.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Easy to remove? compared to most 50's bikes it is ,compared to modern bikes its heaven
Front should remove with front stands in the rotate position rear is a doddle and if you read the forum you dont need any tools not even a pair of pliers.. now it took me 40 years to find that gem out.
 

nkt267

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Easy to remove? compared to most 50's bikes it is ,compared to modern bikes its heaven
I can remember that at the Vine in North London we had a wheel changing competition. I didn't win but I think the record was below 60 seconds from wheel in to wheel out and back again..John
 

nkt267

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Release the mag cowl at the bottom,or remove it completely.Remove the small 1/4 BSF bolt that goes through the lefthand engineplate,this will then allow the front stand assy to rotate down.Various methods exist on how to get the stand completely down,but you need to need to raise the front to get the stand past vertical.in the workshop I use a small jack..John
 

clevtrev

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Release the mag cowl at the bottom,or remove it completely.Remove the small 1/4 BSF bolt that goes through the lefthand engineplate,this will then allow the front stand assy to rotate down.Various methods exist on how to get the stand completely down,but you need to need to raise the front to get the stand past vertical.in the workshop I use a small jack..John
Why not do it the engineers way.
Take a bungee cord, let the prop stand drop down, hook the bungee round the foot of one of the legs, move to the front of the bike, pull the bungee to put tensions into it, trap the cord under your foot, and lift the front end. You will find that the the stand is now in position. That way you don`t have to take your jack with you, when your out on the road with a puncture. Always have a bungee with you, you never know when a kick start return spring will break.
One thing I forgot, "keep your boots on !"
 
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Marcus Bowden

VOC Hon. Overseas Representative
VOC Member
Why not fit the spring FT 120 that is meant to do the job automatically when lifting the front end, leave the bungee on the kickstart crank. As for the 1/4" BSF bolt on the left hand engineplate securing it when bike in operational mode, it should be 5/16" BSF bolt 843 using a 1/4" whit spanner ! happy playing.
bananaman
 

clevtrev

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Why not fit the spring FT 120 that is meant to do the job automatically when lifting the front end, leave the bungee on the kickstart crank. As for the 1/4" BSF bolt on the left hand engineplate securing it when bike in operational mode, it should be 5/16" BSF bolt 843 using a 1/4" whit spanner ! happy playing.
bananaman
Because that little FT120, having sat there for I don`t know how many years stretched to death, needs a little help
It`s usually banana shaped too. :D
 
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