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For Sale Lightning Brakes


Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
The spring is an easy fix, Just drill a hole in the shoe, Some people do that anyway, Sometimes the hook has been known to break off.
The BMW is only moving one shoe.
The only problem I see is a Spongy Brake, Our old trouble !.
I already use the Roger Haylett mod' of elongating the pivot hole , So the shoe can make itself central.
Cheers Bill.
 

peter holmes

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Surely the BMW is moving both shoes, it is a twin leading shoe brake, it looks to have vertically opposing pivot points on each shoe, and vertically opposing brake cams on each shoe, if only one shoe moved I think you would have a truly useless brake.
 

peter holmes

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
isn't that the case with all twin leading shoe brakes, both shoes get the effect of being pulled onto the brake drum by virtue of the rotation, the downside to that is they don't hold very well on a downward slope, our single leading shoe works quite well in that respect as it always has one leading shoe whether going forwards or backwards, a twin leading shoe is only a twin leading shoe when going forwards, but a twin trailing shoe when going backwards.
 

davidd

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I was not the first to suggest a re-design involving a cross-brace on the pivot pins and a corresponding narrowing of the pivot eyes to accommodate this; there was an article in M.P.H. many years ago. Has anyone done this?
The quick answer from me is no. However, I have planned to do so for quite a while. It is the next logical step in the racing brake improvement. The shoes have been in the brake for two seasons, the linings are the highest coefficient possible with no fading and the H41 plates are hardened steel.
DSCN2465.jpg
These are 8" brakes and I should mention that they are perfect for us because we are required to use a trailing and leading shoe due to regulation. You should see Vincent Speet for a good street brake.

I don't mind cutting the pivot loop in half in order to weld a brace in between the posts. The other option here is to make a "lozenge" shaped single pivot that spans the width of the original two pivots. The ends would be the same diameter of the pivots and the shoe would rest on the end. This long single pivot would have two threaded holes in the bottom so it can be bolted into the plate with the original holes. Two springs would be needed to hold the shoes properly, but the Triumph brake springs for the equivalent diameter brake work best.

A final option is to use the Triumph single pivot brake, both 7" and 8". Weld a single pivot to a bar that spans the two pivot holes and use the Triumph shoes. These are not braced like the EBC shoes, so that might be an issue regarding shoe stiffness. but the shoes look sturdy and have a cast in H48 plate.
Single Pivot Triumph Brake.jpg
In all these cases, I think it is better to have a single pivot, like the Triumph, or a long, but one piece double ended pivot. The aluminum brake plates are reasonably stiff, but the steel plates flex quite a bit and could benefit from the pivots being solid, single or tied together.

David
 

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