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C: Clutch Lighter Clutch Control Level Comet


alscomet

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I need a lighter clutch lever for my Comet,It is a Burman Clutch,Recently new plates,New clutch cable from Club,Rod is free but the clutch is
getting a bit heavy for my arthritic left hand. I have reduced the spring pressure until I can get it to slip in 4th gear when turning on the power so that's not really desirable
The action is smooth without any hard spots and the cable is free of any bad kinks,assistance please.
 

stumpy lord

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I need a lighter clutch lever for my Comet,It is a Burman Clutch,Recently new plates,New clutch cable from Club,Rod is free but the clutch is
getting a bit heavy for my arthritic left hand. I have reduced the spring pressure until I can get it to slip in 4th gear when turning on the power so that's not really desirable
The action is smooth without any hard spots and the cable is free of any bad kinks,assistance please.
you could try a universal easy pull clutch lighter system -3 settings for leverage ratio adjustment.
code off-clutch 001 cost £17 98

from feked .com classicbike parts

as far as I can tell, they have taken over Sammy millers trials spares company
 

MartynG

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
You need a minimum drag clutch cable – if you try stuffing it up out of the way tween tank and UFM you will have a number of bends in it that cause excessive friction. The clutch cable needs to exit the gearbox and cross over to the left side of the bike, a graceful sweep past the muff then a sensuous curve to the right, under the headstem, another curve to the left to the clutch lever – the standard clutch cable is way too short for this – make up your own.

Have a look at this
 

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Where did you get the swiveling barrel end? I can't find it on the Venhill UK or US sites or my other references.
 

MartynG

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Where did you get the swiveling barrel end? I can't find it on the Venhill UK or US sites or my other references.
Full details of cable construction, including part numbers, can be found in the Oz Vincent Review, edition 46 and can be downloaded from here www.tinyurl.com/ozvinrev . And if your not a OVR subscriber, you may subscribe at the site as well and for free!
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I need a lighter clutch lever for my Comet,It is a Burman Clutch,Recently new plates,New clutch cable from Club,Rod is free but the clutch is
getting a bit heavy for my arthritic left hand. I have reduced the spring pressure until I can get it to slip in 4th gear when turning on the power so that's not really desirable
The action is smooth without any hard spots and the cable is free of any bad kinks,assistance please.
I have the same problem with hands, I found with a new Nylon cable from the works was better, And as
Martyn says , A nice long sweep with the cable.
The trouble with a shorter lever, I would think you won't have as much lift ?, A lot of people have drag with the Comet Clutch, But mine is good and standard.
We did a Comet in 2015 and the new works plates were a lot thicker than the old ones were made, I think we had to leave one out ?.
Trouble with leaving the springs too loose, I did the same and found a few undid a bit in time !.
I know It's a problem to keep riding with these hands, But keep on we must :) . Cheers Bill.
 

erik

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Using ATF in the Primary case is possible to let the clutch bite better.this is because in automatic car gearboxes are several clutches and brake linings.So you can lower the Tension of the clutch springs.And where the clutch Lever on the handlebar rotates ,you can move this Point of Rotation to make the load arm shorter in relation to the power arm of the Lever.Erik
 

MartynG

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Using ATF in the Primary case is possible to let the clutch bite better.this is because in automatic car gearboxes are several clutches and brake linings.So you can lower the Tension of the clutch springs.And where the clutch Lever on the handlebar rotates ,you can move this Point of Rotation to make the load arm shorter in relation to the power arm of the Lever.Erik
I contacted EBC - the clutch plate makers - about the problem I had with the Honda clutch fitted to my Comet that was 'sticking' causing very noisy gear changes.

They replied that ATF was not suitable for use in conventional clutches as after it has been thru a few heat cycles it form a gum that sticks the plates together. Their advise was to replace the ATF contaminated plates with new ones then use NOTHING other than a specific transmission oil such as Motol TransOil.

Since I made the switch, no more clutch issues.
 

erik

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
In my Norton Commando I use ATF since more than 20 years, no Problem.Never found sticky liquide in the Primary case.It is a mythos like oil and ptfe or nyloc cables.both works fine together.
 

alscomet

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I purchased one of the Feked clutch multiplyers from the internet I haven't fitted it yet as I need to shorten my clutch outer cable to make it fit but its worth a try.If it works I can then make up new cables to position the unit in a more desirable place .
 

tatty500

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Alscomet,
Back in the sixties I had a 600 Panther and a Comet. Both have the BA gearbox and clutch.
The Panther had 3 cork plates and light springs and gave me no trouble al all.
The Comet with its 5 plates and thick springs was always a pain.
Adding more plates will mean less clearance when lifted. A multiplier configured to lower the lever force will do the same. Engaging first gear will get crunchier.
I understand that oiled cork has a higher coefficient of friction than Ferodo.
However I cannot remember whether the oil level in the Panther kept the clutch always wet.
Cork if you can find it might be the way to go.
Regards
Tatty
 

nkt267

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Alscomet,
Back in the sixties I had a 600 Panther and a Comet. Both have the BA gearbox and clutch.
The Panther had 3 cork plates and light springs and gave me no trouble al all.
The Comet with its 5 plates and thick springs was always a pain.
Adding more plates will mean less clearance when lifted. A multiplier configured to lower the lever force will do the same. Engaging first gear will get crunchier.
I understand that oiled cork has a higher coefficient of friction than Ferodo.
However I cannot remember whether the oil level in the Panther kept the clutch always wet.
Cork if you can find it might be the way to go.
Regards
Tatty
The 1930's Sunbeam lot are tending to use the Clutch Cork Carvery.
 

karl johnson

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
ive just stripped my burman clutch just for some checks on wear etc ..and the cable was worse for wear.the origional when i first got the bike, i sent off for a new one and cable oiled it...routed it on the outside (the best way) up through the inside of the front tank mount the steering is sweet with no cable movement, but more so the clutch action is lighter than before (quite suprised) so the basics... new cable and oiled the best routing what you can get
 

alscomet

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Well I tried the £17.75 clutch multiplier and it did make the clutch easier but unfortunately, I was unable to select any gears as the clutch lift is lost. Can you imagine sat on the bike all the gear on waving to the public,
who had arrived to see the depart, then back in the garage like a film playing backwards?
I have since sent for a Venhill frictionless cable 6 inches longer than the club original, routed it past the muff(barrel) to the right-hand side of the bike, up over the top link and to the clutch lever which has a swivelling nipple .Not been out yet but it does seem easier to apply when it stops raining!!! Price approx £45.00 in vat and postage. well pleased.
 
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Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
It must depend on what lever you have, I use an alloy dogleg type, 1. 1/8", Between cable and pivot.
I also have Norton Commando handlebars, like the touring type. My standard nylon lined cable goes from the lever down inside the left hand side of the top link, then inside the Petrol Tank where the front bolt is and down to the gearbox. I am pleased with mine, maybe undo the springs a bit until you get a bit of slip then tighten a bit?
 

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Sakura

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Well I tried the £17.75 clutch multiplier and it did make the clutch easier but unfortunately I was unable to select any gears as clutch lift is lost. Can you imagine sat on the bike all the gear on waving to the public,
who had arrived to see the depart, then back in the garage like a film playing backwards.
I have since sent for a Venhill frictionless cable 6 inches longer than the club original ,routed it past the muff(barrel) to the right hand side of the bike,up over the top link and to the clutch lever which has a swivelling nipple ?.Not been out yet but it does seem easier to apply when it stops raining !!! Price approx £45.00 in vat and postage. well pleased.
Despite all comments to the contrary, oil the nylon lined cable, it makes a tremendous difference. There will be a lot of replies saying this is inadvisable but I have done it many times with no problems.
 

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