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Jointing compound


derek

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I would like to know the various preferences of which sealant/gasket goo to use for sealing joint faces, both face to face or in combination with paper gaskets for good oil tight joints of engine and gearboxes.
 

BlackLightning998

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Never done it myself but.....

Hi, not done it myself but I was told of a method:

1 - Soak the paper gasket in water

2 - Let it drip dry

3 - Get a gasket sealant and put a "blob" (technical bit) between your thumb and forefinger on one hand

4 - Run the gasket through the finger and thumb - thus applying a thin trace of the sealant

5 - Leave to dry overnight

6 - The next day you come to fit a gasket with good sealing properties and lower risk of getting any stray material into an oilway

Love to hear if anyone has actually done it this way.

Have you thought about FYO and ATY - the two publications which capture technical tips from MPH magazine over the years - I have found them very helpful indeed?

Stuart
 

nkt267

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I have used the method of wetting the gasket and rubbing silicone sealant on,but I put the gasket in place and JUST nip the gasket up and leave it overnight and then fully tighten.After I fixed the leak from the lifter mechanism I now get no leaks from timing cover,driveside or gearbox on my Comet..John
 

BlackLightning998

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
How did you fix the leak from the lifter?

Hi John,

I've got a leak from the lifter mechanism, I've read about making sure the cable is running at the right angle as it heads into the cases. Beyond that, what did you do to sort it, and do you know if the Comet solution works on a Twin?

Having found loose valve covers on top of the engine when I took the tank off (and making a special spanner to tighten them as they are very tight up against the UFM) the top of the engine looks oil tight to me, just a weep on the lifter mechanism to sort.

Cheers

Stuart
 

tonythecat

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Bob Dunn advised me to use Ducati Threebond 1215, and I have used this with some success, but it is bloody difficult to obtain.

Tony
 
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nkt267

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
How did you fix the leak from the lifter?

On my Comet the seals that go between the shoulder of the lifter shaft and the crankcase face were MISSING.Hence half a Torrie Canyon,the wifes boots were nice and shiny and definately waterproof:eek:
Russ does a mod for the twin which does not fit the Comet.If he does not have one then I have a spare(or maybe I'll use it to start a twin project:rolleyes:)...John
 

BlackLightning998

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I'll ask Russ - VinParts is my usual supplier so we'll see what the solution is

Many thanks John. I've dropped Russ at VinParts a note to see what the solution might me (and ask if the apprentice mechanic like me could do it myself).

Thanks for the guidance.

I've got some original valves, pushrod tubes, pistons, primary drive stuff and other engine internals that came out of my Rapide when Terry Prince did a complete overhaul if you'd like to add them to the valve lifter mod and start a twin project!!!

Oh - and I think I may have the original brake drums too - she got a new set of Shadow Drums for a birthday present last year.

Oh - and a bucket full of tatty original nuts and bolts.

That's almost a bike isn't it - put it on ebay and should easily get £20K

Dreaming of Gerrards Cross
Stuart
 

Real Rocker

Website User
Non-VOC Member
Sealants

In my yoof it was red Hermetite & knackered faces & gaskets & ,surprise,surprise ,they leaked. Then instant gasket,effective but dangerous, Blue hylomar, effective on good gaskets/joints but too expensive. Quite a few others but the late John King got me back using red Hermetite. Cheap,effective,easy to get rid off. Follow the instructions & let it become tacky before bolting up. Dell Boy.
 

BlackLightning998

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I knew it rang a bell....

In 2006 I first met Peter Bromberg riding his super Vincent Twin at a Ducati specialist (GTec, Jeff Green) when he was on the trail of some of the threebond and I was there to see a Ducati. He had also been told that this stuff is the holy grail of sealant.

If anyone is stuck for it, try GTec (you'll find it on a google search) and e-mail Jeff Green - he may be able to help put you in the right directon.

Stuart

Bob Dunn advised me to use Ducati Threebond 1215, and I have used this with some success, but it is bloody difficult to obtain.

Tony
 

petermb998

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hi Stuart.
I have used that tube of three-bond 1215 and got a couple of tubes from the Coventry Ducati dealers. Not difficult to get from them.
Also if you go on the www.Threebond.co.uk site you should find dealers near you.
If I remember right the Threebond site also lists the different grades and uses.
I have used most of the sealants as listed by previous members. But the Threebond is by far the best.
regards Peter
PS
Bob Dunn was the person to recommend Threebond. If Bob uses it it must be good.
 
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BlackLightning998

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hi Peter - long time no hear

Hi Peter,

L&L lift is brilliant - should have got one a long time ago.

Off to Shepton Mallet in the morning - you going?

S
 

Tom Gaynor

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Occasionally, when feeling nostalgic and feeling a desire for uncleanable fingers, I use Wellseal, usually a smear on oil-feed banjo seals and the like. On gasket faces I use domestic silicone from B&Q, at about £2 for the one cubic metre pack. If you have a Brown Shadow, you can even get wood-grain sealant to match. The biker alternative is the same stuff coloured orange (like cheddar cheese - white is real, orange is white dyed...) from Hermetitite costing £10 for 10 cc. Smell it: it's the same stuff.
I use it on almost everything, including (Sunbeam) cylinder head copper/asbestos gaskets. On a Rudge rocker box cover (think of a deep fat fryer with a lid) it will remain oiltight metal to metal for over a year. What were called "top engine tuners" - i.e. guys who build Manx Norton motors for a living - use it.
The only care that need be taken (apart from moderation, below) is to tighten down covers in stages, to let everything settle. Which you ought to do anyway. And, top tuner's tip, ho ho, cutting the blind end off the nozzle sliver by sliver gradually increasing the hole size so as to deposit a thin bead, about 1/16", not a toothpaste sized 1/4".
Forget about stringers of gloop plugging oilways, just moderate your use of it to suit the purpose. A thin coat is all you need. However, when I was younger, more profligate, I used lots. I never plugged an oilway, invariably found the squeezed out stringer still in place. Once it sets, any stringer outside can be peeled off to leave a joint that looks as though it was sculpted with a razor blade. . One can even use it having put a film of oil over one surface, so that if the joint has to be split the silicone won't tear, and it will reseal good as new.
And, as they say of mother's milk, it comes in an attractive and easily usable container.
 

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