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Its all about setup.
1. Inside the burman box there is an adjuster for the clutch arm actuator. Needs to be adjusted so that the clutch just starts to lift as the angle between the arm and the cable reaches 90 degrees and no more.
2. Use the in-line adjuster to adjust the clutch (handlebar) lever position.
3. Standard clutch cables do not help, too many sharpish bends. Make up your own avoiding sharp bends - do NOT try to hide or position the clutch cable inside the fuel tank "tunnel". You want the cable to exit the gearbox in a straight line then sweep around the left side of the motor, then in front of the motor and another smooth sweep to the left up to the clutch lever, again entering the clutch lever in a straight line.
One more thing with the Conway/Honda kit - The best thing to use in the primary case is MOTUL TransOil 10-30. If you use ATF within 200 miles the friction plate will be contaminated and you will forever experience sticking plates. I know, it resulted in me purchasing a complete set of new plates from my local Honda dealer.
That number rings a bell. For a while Conways stopped the Honda conversion as they coudn't find any donor clutches. I managed to find one on eBay and it was off a CJ360T from 1974-78 and then sent it to Conways for conversion. They only provided the parts they made / modified and I used the springs that came with the clutch so they could be anything, but they do work.Hi All,
The original clutches used by Conways were CB350, or CJ360 which have not been manufactured for nearly 40 years. I'm not sure what they are currently using, but I remember when I bought mine I paid for it with 3 cltches from breakers in my area.
If you want parts that fit straight on, buy a modern bike fitted with high precision CNC machined components. If you want to play with 70+ year old bikes either learn some engineering or pay someone who does know how to do it!Bovine Excreta ! Flimsy excuse for poor workmanship