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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
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<blockquote data-quote="hadronuk" data-source="post: 42852" data-attributes="member: 1866"><p>Could you help me with some information about your Girdraulics?</p><p> </p><p> It would be extremely useful to me and I hope interesting to you. </p><p> It should help with understanding and improving these forks.</p><p> </p><p> I will of course publish the results, so that anyone interested in Girdraulics can also use the info. </p><p> </p><p> What I need is two measurements and some related information.</p><p></p><p>To take the measurements, proceed as follows:</p><p></p><p> <img src="http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/s615/hadronuk/measurements_zpsa382978a.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p> </p><p>With the bike on the stand, attach a cable tie as shown in picture 1 tight enough so that it stays in place but so that it can just still slide. Do both sides if you like for extra accuracy.</p><p> </p><p> Take the bike off the stand and gently sit astride with feet lightly touching the ground.</p><p> Then carefully put the bike back on the stand and lift the front of the bike so that the forks are fully extended.</p><p> </p><p> With the forks fully extended, measure distance “A”. (picture 2)</p><p> </p><p> Leave the cable tie(s) in place until you have ridden the bike such that it feels as if the forks have bottomed out. If this doesn’t occur, just take the measurement when the bike has had enough usage to be representative of how you ride the bike.</p><p> </p><p> Lift the front of the bike so that the forks are fully extended.</p><p> </p><p> With the forks fully extended, measure distance “B”. (picture 3)</p><p> </p><p> Post here or PM me as much as possible of the following information:-</p><p> </p><p> </p><ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Measurement “A” </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Measurement “B” </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">What damper you have fitted? </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Short or long eyebolts? </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">What springs and inner springs are fitted? </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Length of any spring spacers/packers? </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Original or replacement spring cases? </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Rough idea of how heavily the bike was loaded? If possible, approximate weight of rider and passenger, if carried. </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Single or twin? </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Any comments about how the bike was ridden or how hard the forks bottomed out? </li> </ol><p> </p><p> Measurement “A” gives the solo static ride height.</p><p></p><p> Measurement “B” gives the maximum suspension compression that occurred.</p><p></p><p> (B-A) gives the actual bump travel.</p><p></p><p> (Damper stroke – A) gives the available bump travel.</p><p> </p><p> The most important and interesting information is measurement “B”.</p><p> If “B” is less than the available damper travel, the forks are not bottoming out. </p><p> </p><p> (I should add that there is an outside possibility that if you have short eyebolts and very very thick packers, it may just be possible for the springs to bottom out before the damper.) </p><p> </p><p> All info greatly appreciated.</p><p> </p><p> Rob.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="hadronuk, post: 42852, member: 1866"] Could you help me with some information about your Girdraulics? It would be extremely useful to me and I hope interesting to you. It should help with understanding and improving these forks. I will of course publish the results, so that anyone interested in Girdraulics can also use the info. What I need is two measurements and some related information. To take the measurements, proceed as follows: [IMG]http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/s615/hadronuk/measurements_zpsa382978a.jpg[/IMG] With the bike on the stand, attach a cable tie as shown in picture 1 tight enough so that it stays in place but so that it can just still slide. Do both sides if you like for extra accuracy. Take the bike off the stand and gently sit astride with feet lightly touching the ground. Then carefully put the bike back on the stand and lift the front of the bike so that the forks are fully extended. With the forks fully extended, measure distance “A”. (picture 2) Leave the cable tie(s) in place until you have ridden the bike such that it feels as if the forks have bottomed out. If this doesn’t occur, just take the measurement when the bike has had enough usage to be representative of how you ride the bike. Lift the front of the bike so that the forks are fully extended. With the forks fully extended, measure distance “B”. (picture 3) Post here or PM me as much as possible of the following information:- [LIST=1] [*]Measurement “A” [*]Measurement “B” [*]What damper you have fitted? [*]Short or long eyebolts? [*]What springs and inner springs are fitted? [*]Length of any spring spacers/packers? [*]Original or replacement spring cases? [*]Rough idea of how heavily the bike was loaded? If possible, approximate weight of rider and passenger, if carried. [*]Single or twin? [*]Any comments about how the bike was ridden or how hard the forks bottomed out? [/LIST] Measurement “A” gives the solo static ride height. Measurement “B” gives the maximum suspension compression that occurred. (B-A) gives the actual bump travel. (Damper stroke – A) gives the available bump travel. The most important and interesting information is measurement “B”. If “B” is less than the available damper travel, the forks are not bottoming out. (I should add that there is an outside possibility that if you have short eyebolts and very very thick packers, it may just be possible for the springs to bottom out before the damper.) All info greatly appreciated. Rob. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
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