Monoblocs were introduced in '54.
hello from a state of disassembly.
- Thread starter lindie
- Start date
i have lindies engine as the desktop on my work computer and the number of customers who say "i had a harley (bloody infidels!) once, forever breaking **** on it. i've got some bits up the back of my shed for sale if you want them" is heartbreaking. if it was as simple as that though i guess there'd be no thrill to the chase. might put a few feelers out on ebay as well i guess though making those parasites (ebay over here tend to be treacherous at best) richer irks me somewhat. still, the first ride is still a way off so i guess i've time to make arrangements adequate to the survival of my right leg. theres good compression there, thats for sure.
briefly, i've struck a wall trying to reply to a thread or two. is this normal or are my settings off?
think i might catch forty winks for now as i keep leaving letters out of words.
briefly, i've struck a wall trying to reply to a thread or two. is this normal or are my settings off?
think i might catch forty winks for now as i keep leaving letters out of words.
You could always fit an electric start kit ??!!
Magneto kill switch
The wire from the mag cap goes to earth, generally a horn button. I don't use mine (something else to go wrong...) instead using the valve-lifter.
The wire from the mag cap goes to earth, generally a horn button. I don't use mine (something else to go wrong...) instead using the valve-lifter.
thanks tom. am hoping to get out to the bike this weekend to play on it for a few hours and sus out quite what else i'm missing in the way of bolts and easily noted parts. may hopefully get it fired and running to some degree if all goes to plan but she's slept this long so another month or two can't hurt. would like to hear that all goes round and round as per how it should, then bite the bullet and pluck off the timing case to see what i'm missing. might try to sort out the earthing wire while i'm at it in case she does run.
mag kill button
It is a much safer to use a mag cut out button to stop your engine Tom, than use the valve lifter, for it is not un known for the little roller to drop out of the ET69 valve lifter with potentialy disasterous results.
stumpy lord.
It is a much safer to use a mag cut out button to stop your engine Tom, than use the valve lifter, for it is not un known for the little roller to drop out of the ET69 valve lifter with potentialy disasterous results.
stumpy lord.
I'm a firm believer in "rolling restorations". Put some miles on it - I put about 5000 on mine - and at the end of it you have a clear idea of what needs to be done. Then you get it done. A good example is breathers: it took me quite a long time to realise that the answer to my problems wasn't a new breather system, but to address the problems (piston and valve guide blow-by) that was overwhelming the standard system. Drilling holes in the chaincase inspection cap had the un-anticipated (by me) effect of letting the engine breathe through the chaincase, and rendering ineffective the "real" breather. When I plugged the holes I'd drilled, the chaincase oil level stopped changing...
For me the result was to go from something that went pretty well for a 50 year-old bike, to something that went like sh*t off a shovel, a bike that lived up to its myth.
The alternative is to look at the bits, not knowing how they perform together, replace everything you think needs replaced, then start the sorting out procedure from scratch, but with new bits. It works, but it takes just as long, and is much more expensive.
A question you asked: when does it "get on the cam". Mine does it about 2500 rpm, about 50 mph in top (21 x 46). It goes better if I "short-shift". It would be interesting to put it on a dyno and get a torque curve. When torque falls off, acceleration follows suit.
For me the result was to go from something that went pretty well for a 50 year-old bike, to something that went like sh*t off a shovel, a bike that lived up to its myth.
The alternative is to look at the bits, not knowing how they perform together, replace everything you think needs replaced, then start the sorting out procedure from scratch, but with new bits. It works, but it takes just as long, and is much more expensive.
A question you asked: when does it "get on the cam". Mine does it about 2500 rpm, about 50 mph in top (21 x 46). It goes better if I "short-shift". It would be interesting to put it on a dyno and get a torque curve. When torque falls off, acceleration follows suit.
had a hunt through some of the spares i found near the bike and am puzzled by one or two things. did the comet have an ESA in the ilk of the twins? and do the ESA on the twins have three lobes as per the parts list or two as per the tech drawing here: http://www.voc.uk.com/primarydrive_comps.pdf
reason being that the list registers 18 springs for the ESA of both, and in among the spares is a single chain run sprocket with a two lobe cam setup.
also found a 46 tooth chainwheel from the rear wheel, three new compression (down one for a full set) and two oil control rings, a pair of lodge plugs and two new klg plugs with a blue insulator body. two dead new primary gaskets that can only serve now as a pattern, lots of seals and fibre gasket rings, a set of triple valve springs and a used looking valve guide and retaining ring. having a nightmare finding affordable bsf bolts in my neck of the woods though. may have to bite the bullet and get some made.
on the topic of the valve lifter, i read somewhere that the mk 2 cam runs a smaller base circle that leaves the cam followers lower down in a region where the valve lifter arms would otherwise interfere with their full closing. any of this ring true to anyone here? perhaps i've been dreading the absence of something that is best left out in my bikes case.
on another track, is or has anyone run their bike with mikuni flatslides? i'm planning to utilise a pair of vm28ss carbs i have left over to try and get her up and running and maybe keep them there if they prove usable. thoughts on basic jetting would be great if someone has thrown the hard yards of development in before me.
i reckon that might do for tonights little novel. apologies for my ramblings. glen.
reason being that the list registers 18 springs for the ESA of both, and in among the spares is a single chain run sprocket with a two lobe cam setup.
also found a 46 tooth chainwheel from the rear wheel, three new compression (down one for a full set) and two oil control rings, a pair of lodge plugs and two new klg plugs with a blue insulator body. two dead new primary gaskets that can only serve now as a pattern, lots of seals and fibre gasket rings, a set of triple valve springs and a used looking valve guide and retaining ring. having a nightmare finding affordable bsf bolts in my neck of the woods though. may have to bite the bullet and get some made.
on the topic of the valve lifter, i read somewhere that the mk 2 cam runs a smaller base circle that leaves the cam followers lower down in a region where the valve lifter arms would otherwise interfere with their full closing. any of this ring true to anyone here? perhaps i've been dreading the absence of something that is best left out in my bikes case.
on another track, is or has anyone run their bike with mikuni flatslides? i'm planning to utilise a pair of vm28ss carbs i have left over to try and get her up and running and maybe keep them there if they prove usable. thoughts on basic jetting would be great if someone has thrown the hard yards of development in before me.
i reckon that might do for tonights little novel. apologies for my ramblings. glen.
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I am running VM34s as is Dan Smith. We jet similar but not identical. He has 10:1 squish pistons, bigger pipes and siamesed Supertrapps, bigger valve openings etc etc and I have 9.4:1 with std Mk11 but twin pipes into a single 2 1/4" collector and a single Supertrapp. I think you may find that these are two stroke carbs - and that creates a big learning curve for jetting (takes two hands worth of fingers to count the seized pistons). I can look up what I have in there if and when you get close to fitting them, but not sure how much it would help on the 28mm.
Robert
Robert