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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Heavier Front Brake Cables
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<blockquote data-quote="b'knighted" data-source="post: 10551" data-attributes="member: 59"><p>A good site, thanks!</p><p></p><p>I was recently had the good fortune to be taken, by John Crispin, to visit Marcus Bowden, the VOC Overseas Rep. </p><p>Marcus demonstrated the special tools he has made to '‘’work over’’ /mushroom or flair' the multiple ends. These comprise aluminium vice liners with a slight vertical groove to align the cable under a suitable counterbore and a hardened silver steel punch. The punch end is drilled and its bore and outer edge are rounded. Its bore is smaller than the full diameter of the cable but its inner radius lets it centre on the cable end. The cable is held with about five times its thickness above the floor of the counterbore. As the punch is tapped down the outer layers of wire bell out to meet the edges of the counterbore before their ends are tucked into the middle. The resulting tangled ball of wire hardly needs soldering as it would be impossible to pull it through a nipple. A separate punch and counterbore is needed for each size of inner cable. Perhaps if Marcus reads this he will put up some pictures of tools and wire ball end.</p><p></p><p>I will be making punches and clamp to make better clutch and lifter cables for myself and from choice would use ball shank ends (like Flanders 620-24280) in barrel nipples like (Flanders 620-23110) as they release any rotational stress from the cable. </p><p></p><p>Using a combination of Marcus’ and Jim’s techniques/advice, with a small solder pot to dip the fluxed ball end into, should give me better results than I have bodged in the past. The solder pot is used to ensure that no excess heat is applied to the cable as only heat transfer from the solder takes place.</p><p></p><p>I don't expect to ever need to replace the heavy duty front brake cables that Derek Sayers supplied.</p><p></p><p>Cheers,</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="b'knighted, post: 10551, member: 59"] A good site, thanks! I was recently had the good fortune to be taken, by John Crispin, to visit Marcus Bowden, the VOC Overseas Rep. Marcus demonstrated the special tools he has made to '‘’work over’’ /mushroom or flair' the multiple ends. These comprise aluminium vice liners with a slight vertical groove to align the cable under a suitable counterbore and a hardened silver steel punch. The punch end is drilled and its bore and outer edge are rounded. Its bore is smaller than the full diameter of the cable but its inner radius lets it centre on the cable end. The cable is held with about five times its thickness above the floor of the counterbore. As the punch is tapped down the outer layers of wire bell out to meet the edges of the counterbore before their ends are tucked into the middle. The resulting tangled ball of wire hardly needs soldering as it would be impossible to pull it through a nipple. A separate punch and counterbore is needed for each size of inner cable. Perhaps if Marcus reads this he will put up some pictures of tools and wire ball end. I will be making punches and clamp to make better clutch and lifter cables for myself and from choice would use ball shank ends (like Flanders 620-24280) in barrel nipples like (Flanders 620-23110) as they release any rotational stress from the cable. Using a combination of Marcus’ and Jim’s techniques/advice, with a small solder pot to dip the fluxed ball end into, should give me better results than I have bodged in the past. The solder pot is used to ensure that no excess heat is applied to the cable as only heat transfer from the solder takes place. I don't expect to ever need to replace the heavy duty front brake cables that Derek Sayers supplied. Cheers, [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Heavier Front Brake Cables
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