Headstock Bearings

tonythecat

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I am looking at the taper bearing conversion as supplied by Christian Patzke, has anyone fitted these? if so what are they like to fit, any machining required?,and what are the overall impressions?
Thanks

Tony
 

john998

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Head stock bearings

Hello,
someone out there must have an insight on this subject.
I would like some information too.
John.
 

John Cone

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There was an article in MPH sometime back, perhaps in Robert Watson's time as editor on the fitting of tapered headstock bearings.
 

petermb998

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When you get a set from Christian Patzke you will find full instructions supplied with the kit.

I fitted a set in 1998 with no problems.
The only bit of machining/mod that I did was to grind 2 notches at the bottom of the bearing housing in the head stock.
Just enough to enable a thin drift to knock out the outer bearing
This will make it easier to get the outer bearing out at a future date if required.

Also if you can get some use a water proof grease for the bearings.
Fit and forget.
Good luck with it.

regards Peter Bromberg
 

tonythecat

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Pretty sure there will be something in FYO.

Can't see anything in FYO, but in ATY, page 23 there is a sales pitch from the producer of the kit, but really tells very little about the fitting, or obviously and independent appraisal.
Thanks.
Tony
 

vince998

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Can't see anything in FYO, but in ATY, page 23 there is a sales pitch from the producer of the kit, but really tells very little about the fitting, or obviously and independent appraisal.
Thanks.
Tony

I fitted a set three or four years ago to my D shadow, and to a mates egli.
The fitting is very simple. Don´t forget to check that the nose of the bearing inner doesn´t catch on the lip of the headstock inner bearing seat. Should this be the case, a dremel and 10 minutes to taper the lip down is all you need. (top & bottom)
Initial bearing adjustment can be a bit tricky depending on how indented the steering stem is from the top clip pinch bolt (on tightening, the whole assembly wants to adjust itself back to where its been for the last 50 years)(please don´t ask me for part numbers, it´s been a while since i looked in the catalogue).
Wear is non existent,and were it not for the yearly greasing ritual, i wouldn´t have to touch it.
As i mentioned, very simple to fit,very friendly in maintenance, but a bit on the pricy side (Christian has to disasemble the bearings, and get the cages ground down to fit our head lugs, then reassemble)
If i´d had access to a decent lathe, i´d probably of machined the bearing seats out to take standard timkins.

Hope this helps tony.
 

roy the mechanic

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taper bearings

Firstly, the guys at Stevenage may well have been "lunatics", by the same token they were not fools. The rollers in taper bearings are larger in diameter than the cup+cones of the originals. This means that the movement of the tapers is less than the balls, consequently the wear pattern will be over a smaller area. When your "new fangled" bearings have done the same ammount of work as the originals(if you ever cover the same mileage!) They will not respond to a small adjustment as the tracks will be indented. Your steering will feel life a threepeny-bit(if you remember such things). Not all "improvements" are for the better. Be forewarned. Roy.
 

John Cone

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I couldn't agree more with your comments Roy. I changed from ball bearing to taper roller on my old trusty CX500 many years ago. One time i thought i would give the headstock a bit of attention and repacked the bearings with grease, after reassembly i went up the road and at the first corner the bike almost threw me off. it was like a ratchet when you turned the handlebars. Ball bearing will eventually rotate their way all the way around the cups they site in provided they are not packed to tight. The ball races on my Prince looked as good as new when i came to puting the front end back together a couple of months back.
 
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