The Spares Company
Club Shop/Regalia
Parent Website
Contact Officials
Machine Registrar
Club Secretary
Membership Secretaries
MPH Editor and Forum Administrator.
Section Newsletters
Technical Databases
Photos
Home
What's new
Latest activity
Forums
New posts
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Information
Bike Modifications
Machine Data Services
Manufacturers Manuals
Spare Parts Listings
Technical Diagrams
Whitakerpedia (Vincent Wiki)
The Club
MPH Material Archive
Flogger's Corner
Obituaries
VOC Sections
Local Sections
Local Section Newsletters
Miscellaneous
Club Assets
Club History
Club Rules
Machine Data Services
Meeting Documents
Miscellaneous
Essential Reading
Magazine/Newspaper Articles/Letters
Adverts and Sales Brochures
The Mighty Garage Videos
Bikes For Sale (Spares Company)
Log in
Register
What's new
New posts
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Grosset Electric Starter Installation
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Phil Mahood" data-source="post: 102480" data-attributes="member: 71"><p>Craig,</p><p>On both your questions ...</p><p>It was not necessary in this instance to grind G66AS, so I do not have a picture. If you did have this problem, it should be obvious where material should be removed. I have seen this part in a few patterns and thicknesses. The originals were hardened and hence grinding the back face could be needed. On some more recent replacements you could use a good file. I find an angle grinder easiest to control and maneuver. But, you could do this with a bench grinder.</p><p></p><p>I wish I had a picture of the G22 cup before and after. Sorry. The instructions that come with the kit have a diagram of the desired result. The instructions say this can be achieved by cutting the outer rim of the cup or pressing it flatter. I put it in a press between two steel plates. I could have used a bench vise. Cutting could be done neatly on a lathe. You could also do it with a Dremel tool, a hack saw or, again that hand grinder. this is not a precision step. As long as the cup ends up with about a 1/16" gap between itself and the back of the new G50 plate, it is fine. The thinned out felt now will sit in that cup and press lightly on back of G50.</p><p></p><p>Graig, keep in mind I was not trying to provide comprehensive, detailed instructions. Francois Grosset's instructions do that. He also suggests many alternative ways of doing things where appropriate. My objective was to give people a feel for the job to enable them to determine which parts of it, if any, they could handle by themselves. The above two things can both be handled with manual tools that most of us have around. In summary, the work needed on the kick-start ratchet and bush are the only parts of the installation where precision machining (lathe work) is truly necessary. All the rest can be done with hand tools.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Phil Mahood, post: 102480, member: 71"] Craig, On both your questions ... It was not necessary in this instance to grind G66AS, so I do not have a picture. If you did have this problem, it should be obvious where material should be removed. I have seen this part in a few patterns and thicknesses. The originals were hardened and hence grinding the back face could be needed. On some more recent replacements you could use a good file. I find an angle grinder easiest to control and maneuver. But, you could do this with a bench grinder. I wish I had a picture of the G22 cup before and after. Sorry. The instructions that come with the kit have a diagram of the desired result. The instructions say this can be achieved by cutting the outer rim of the cup or pressing it flatter. I put it in a press between two steel plates. I could have used a bench vise. Cutting could be done neatly on a lathe. You could also do it with a Dremel tool, a hack saw or, again that hand grinder. this is not a precision step. As long as the cup ends up with about a 1/16" gap between itself and the back of the new G50 plate, it is fine. The thinned out felt now will sit in that cup and press lightly on back of G50. Graig, keep in mind I was not trying to provide comprehensive, detailed instructions. Francois Grosset's instructions do that. He also suggests many alternative ways of doing things where appropriate. My objective was to give people a feel for the job to enable them to determine which parts of it, if any, they could handle by themselves. The above two things can both be handled with manual tools that most of us have around. In summary, the work needed on the kick-start ratchet and bush are the only parts of the installation where precision machining (lathe work) is truly necessary. All the rest can be done with hand tools. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
The Series 'A' Rapide was known as the '********' Nightmare?
Post reply
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Grosset Electric Starter Installation
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top