ET: Engine (Twin) Grosset Electric Starter Installation

[craig]

I am reassembling a B Rapide with Grosset starter and have a small rounded spacer that I do not remember.
It fits on the spring blade stub, but is this the correct use?

 

[clevtrev]

Nothing to do with the starter kit and I think I should know. It`s most likely there to keep the spring in place, it should not need it, because the spring should be a spring fit on the post.

 

[roger v]

Grosset will mail you the pins
For the last it seems a decade I always pull the clutch in when I switch on a coil ignition system with electric start one backfire to the starter and a pin could be the least of your worries. talk about Russian roulette
Now how do I know that?
View attachment 35691

Not directly related to this , but I am designing / making a belt drive via a Suzuki 750 clutch anybody out there advise on the width of belt and the number of driving / driven teeth and their form . Advice on the prospective suppliers of such would be appreciated . Roger

 

[CarlHungness]

Thank you for posting this excellent article.
Just to emphasize a few points: There is very little that can not be done using hand tools. Creating space and checking clearance is key. You need to check and double check for clearance as Vincent parts and castings can vary. e.g. My kickstart cover is an early one and needed hardly anything taking out inside. It could have been done with an angle grinder. Your cover may need more work. The cut out in the cover for the transfer gearbox can easily be made using a hacksaw and file. The modification to the kickstart ratchet gear is most likely the only part that might need some simple machining on a small lathe.
I have found the electric start to be very good and reliable. Having confirmed my confidence in the system I removed the kickstart lever, kickstart quadrant, shaft, return spring, etc. (My right knee has been reminding me that I have been abusing it with a kickstart lever for too many years.) I fitted an aluminium bung in the shaft hole in the cover. If you plan on removing these parts it also means that some of the modifications are unnecessary. If you are prepared to pay a little extra when buying a battery, lithium iron batteries have great capacity for their size and the one that I have used fits inside a dummy battery case so no mods required to the battery platform or strap. It also retains the original look if that is a consideration for you. (It wasn't a consideration for me. )
A 12 volt charging system is more or less essential but that brings the added benefit of easily available lamp replacement and better lights. As a side note, at least one person in the Coventry Section has retained his dynamo converted to 12 volts and that seems to satisfy the needs of the electric starter.

Would like to know which battery you are using. Thanks

 

[BigEd]

Would like to know which battery you are using. Thanks

Shorai LFX14A - BS12. (14V - 14A - CCA 210)
I only JUST fits vertically into an old dummy battery case I had so if that is what you want to do check, the dimensions of the dummy case against the dimensions that Shorai show on their website before you buy. I think this is a higher-capacity version of the same size battery that they also do. Also, check where you want the battery leads to run as there are versions with alternative positions for the battery posts. Be prepared when you look at the price as they are expensive compared with Lead-acid batteries. There may be other brands that may be less expensive if you do some research.

 

[craig]

yes, I agree with ED, I have three of this Shorai in service for the past 4 years. Comet (2yrs), Rapide (4yrs) and Norton Mk3 (5yrs).
It is a challenge to fit these in an EXIDE plastic case, but can be done without issue.
I am using the slightly larger capacity LFX18A1-BS12 series, but fitting in the plastic original appearing battery case.