FF: Forks Girdraulic Fork Blade alignment check/repair

craig

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I have a pair of Girdraulic blades and they appear to not match holes.
1) Should the 3 major holes match on centerline?
2) is there a dimension drawing of the blades?
3) Can you clamp the blade flat surface down and determine which end is bent?
4) how do you bend the blade back?
Merry Christmas
Thank you
Craig

A pair of blades is on my Santa list this year.
Ho Ho Ho
GirdraulicAlignmentCheck1.jpg


This is a Bonhams photo from past sales.
 
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Simon Dinsdale

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VOC Member
VOC Forum Moderator
Craig
Yes they should line up.

To test I place one blade on top of another so both facing the same direction and then put 3 snug fit pins through the holes. Then take the top blade off and reverse it so it points backwards and the 3 pins should still go through.
 

greg brillus

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The blades normally bend bellow the upper spindle boss at the thin area........They not only bend but often get a twist in them as well. They can be out by around a mm at the lower axle hole at most, any more and they should be straightened........this can be done in a press, depending on how bad they are. We have found it is a 3 man job to remove a twist in a blade. The blades are quite strong and take considerable force to remove the bend.........It is a scary task......not for the faint hearted........If they are badly bent they should be replaced.........I've done about 10 or more of them now. Good luck.........GB.
 

craig

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How would you set up the Girdraulic blade for straightening in a press?

GiirdraulicBlade3.jpg
 
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greg brillus

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Craig, We made up some simple jigs in alloy that the blade slides into at the middle where the center spindle passes through........this supports the blade so it doesn't fall to one side. The blade would be held up the other way from your picture above and is supported where the pad bolt nut is in position number one in your picture, then using an alloy block with a tunnel shape machined on one side, you press against the blade in the area immediately where the bend is, so about where the small 1/4 hole is for the headlight attachment bracket, from there aft about 25 mm or so........If the blade has only a small bend you can press it cold, the "spring back" is quite a lot.......A bend that is substantial will need the area heated to around 200 degrees to allow the alloy to move that bit easier.......A twist in the fork blade takes more jigs, again quite simple but need to be strong, and you need a large powerful/heavy press to hold the blade in the middle, whilst you twist the bent area, and someone standing back can watch how far you need to go, and another person holding the heating torch as you go.........It sounds easy, but if the blade is bent quite a bit, they do take some effort to get straight, and several goes as necessary. The holes should all line up, however remember that the spindle holes are 9/16" diameter and the axle hole is 1/2".......So if a straight edge is used with 2 spindles in place, the straight edge will overhang the axle hole by 1/32 of an inch.......a bit under 1 mm or so either side. If they are out by a small amount do not bother trying to fix them........if it is say 2 mm or more, then yes they should be looked at. It is common for one blade of a pair to be bent only, and this seems to be affected by which side of the road the bike is ridden on........ I straightened one the other day off a Comet that came from Europe, so the right blade was the bent one.
 

greg brillus

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Hi Craig yes that's pretty good..... Try and arrange the support of the blade so the top part you press on is level..... This will minimise damage to the area you are pushing down on...... I'm just getting on a plane headed south so I'll be out of contact for a while now..... Cheers.....
Greg.
 

craig

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VOC Member
I found a pair of straight blades that had all three holes line up. I installed the blades and the Girdraulic set appears straight and true.

OMG, I installed FF43/1 pad bolt on the wrong side!

I also found the right guard stay mount hole stripped out , so I ordered a 1/4 BSF recoil set.

20201214_NewBladesStraight1.jpg
 
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craig

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VOC Member
Made progress today with parts from John Healy at thevincentparts.com
Maughan damper looks perfect for OEM.
Still looking for 505 bolts for front guard.
No springs in front boxes.

Fitting VSM 2x2 front brake set, need to pull 09196 outer cups in the hub.
No lip on the 09196 outer race to enable tapping out.

20201216_NewBladesStraight2.jpg
 
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