Robert
I have'nt been able to add any information on the Forks, but as you have the box to pieces and mentioned studs this reminded me of some of my problems with an A box.
A common mod is to fit the studs with 1/4 Whit, in the Alloy, and make the outer threads 1/4 BSF, for the nuts. This gives a better clamping force and less chance of the nut working loose. The standard is 1/4 Whit each end. Also make the studs as long as possible, in the alloy, tapping the holes if necessary. This makes the thread longer than normal and enables you to pick up on good threads.
I found it possible to increase to 5/16 two of the studs that hold the inner case of the gearchange/kickstart compartment to the gearcase proper. This helps to locate them together, and is not seen from the outside. Mine was originally rocking and fretting the mating surfaces. The best way of doing this is to put the shafts in the box, ensure they turn freely and then drill tapping size through both gearbox and inner cover. Separate and carefully enlarge the hole in the inner cover, to the stud size, this enables the new studs to act as dowels.
Another problem with mine was the kickstart return stop. This was replaced with an Socket Headed Capscrew with a special nut on the outside, special in the sense that the nut has to be reduced in diameter on its face to fit. The head of the capscrew has to be taken down a little to fit in and a short piece of hose over the head acts as a buffer.
Hope above helps and good luck, Don
I have'nt been able to add any information on the Forks, but as you have the box to pieces and mentioned studs this reminded me of some of my problems with an A box.
A common mod is to fit the studs with 1/4 Whit, in the Alloy, and make the outer threads 1/4 BSF, for the nuts. This gives a better clamping force and less chance of the nut working loose. The standard is 1/4 Whit each end. Also make the studs as long as possible, in the alloy, tapping the holes if necessary. This makes the thread longer than normal and enables you to pick up on good threads.
I found it possible to increase to 5/16 two of the studs that hold the inner case of the gearchange/kickstart compartment to the gearcase proper. This helps to locate them together, and is not seen from the outside. Mine was originally rocking and fretting the mating surfaces. The best way of doing this is to put the shafts in the box, ensure they turn freely and then drill tapping size through both gearbox and inner cover. Separate and carefully enlarge the hole in the inner cover, to the stud size, this enables the new studs to act as dowels.
Another problem with mine was the kickstart return stop. This was replaced with an Socket Headed Capscrew with a special nut on the outside, special in the sense that the nut has to be reduced in diameter on its face to fit. The head of the capscrew has to be taken down a little to fit in and a short piece of hose over the head acts as a buffer.
Hope above helps and good luck, Don