Gearbox Problem 1950 Twin
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Hi there Rob, Glad to see you found the offending blighter. I would just make sure you use the newer G40/1 shaft with the pin sticking out of the inboard end....make sure it engages nicely into the bevel gear, as some times you need to dress the pin diameter down a fraction to make it fit....but not sloppy. To replace the original tube onto the bevel would be a pain to do in situ, and to replace the bevel would mean splitting the cases...yeeouch. I would do it my way, but others may dissagree.....If your clutch is working fine then there's no need for heavy gearshifts, see what the other guys say......cheers...Greg.
Thanks Greg, your advice is much appreciated. Its what I'll do at this point. If I split the cases at some point, I'll replace the bevell...but not this week! Besides its summer in our country. I replaced the clutch a few years ago with a V3, so gear changes are pretty non-violent (and I'll take extra care untill I finally replace the bevell. Again, thanks....now to put it back together! Rob
Hey Rob, Yes you are correct....perhaps when the sleeve got jammed on top of the selectors..it may have put a burr on the tubular part of the fork and now it is stuck. Just support the selector fork over the jaws of a vice or similar and tap the G30 shaft out with a soft hammer. Deburr the selector fork and your good as gold. Remember to offer the cluster and selector forks/ camplate all together, using a long screwdriver or tapered pry bar inserted in the hole in the end of the layshaft (the one in your left hand...) to support the shaft whilst you guide it all back in. Remember to set up the camplate in 1st gear...looking from the top, the plate rotated hard around anticlockwise. The first gear detent on the plate visible pointing straight out at you on the left hand side. But firstly Put the G40/1 Shaft into place on the right side through the G50 plate bearing and hang a spanner or light fitting visegrips on the other end facing to the rear of the bike, so that the weight of the spanner keps the bevel G39AS HARD AROUND so as to line up 1st gear, this is to get the "Timing" of the bevel gears correctly in mesh.....veeeeery important..this one.........cheers 4 now...Greg.
A few remarks further on Greg's subject if I may . The earlier shaft if it went a bit sideways after the sleeve moved off the joint did lead to breakage to one side of the forked end . Big headache ! The new shaft replacing that original having the projecting pin stayed in line and fully engaged so eliminating the problem .
I had this happen in the early 50s to my Rapide and fixed it by cross drilling the bevel shaft end and the sleeve and affixing it with a split pin so locking the sleeve in position over the joint . no further problem after that . Sid .
I had this happen in the early 50s to my Rapide and fixed it by cross drilling the bevel shaft end and the sleeve and affixing it with a split pin so locking the sleeve in position over the joint . no further problem after that . Sid .
More on the subject as my memorys clear . The original sleeve was simply soldered in place on the bevel shaft and that lost its grip . Were super strength Loctite used there it should never move . A rubber band over the indicator lever and pulling towards the rear is our method of holding all in first gear . Sid .
Thank you all very much. I managed to fix the problem, reassemble the gearbox and it works! Gears changed nicely. When the weather clears, I'll do some fine tuning of the clutch.
Without all of your comments, advice and knowing that help was only a forum post away, this would have been well beyond what I would have confidently taken on. Now for a bottle of red wine!
Cheers, Rob
Without all of your comments, advice and knowing that help was only a forum post away, this would have been well beyond what I would have confidently taken on. Now for a bottle of red wine!
Cheers, Rob
No worries....Mate..!! Thats what we're here for....Greg.