H: Hubs, Wheels and Tyres Front wheel shims and bearings

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Bill Thomas

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The bearing should not be too tight, Unless one was a bit loose and they loctited it ?,
I have seen them with lots of pin punch dings to make it tighter, Not nice !!,
Just put the axle in a vise and tap with a small hammer, One side then the other etc.
 

danno

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The bearing should not be too tight, Unless one was a bit loose and they loctited it ?,
I have seen them with lots of pin punch dings to make it tighter, Not nice !!,
Just put the axle in a vise and tap with a small hammer, One side then the other etc.

Thanks.
As it is, the bearing would probably spin on the axle and most likely has been.
Maybe could try a little locktite on the loose one but I’ll leave the other.
 

danno

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Non-VOC Member
I would add that the wheel needs to be balanced, too.
BTW, VOC Spares has metal caps that replace the felt rings.
Also, check for rim run out before greasing the bearings, retiring and balancing it (1/64"+-). Adjust by tightening/loosening opposite spokes and ringing spokes to "tune" them for tightness. Good luck.

Thanks.
I reckon I’m a fair way off doing that but will be useful later.
Just getting the wheel spinning freely and with the correct amount of play is taking a while.
First time job and while I have the tools, I don’t yet have a bench/vice. Using a workmate at the mo.
Will have to use trial and error with wheel in the forks.
 

danno

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When reassembling get a selection of shims My way (other ways are available) is to put the wheel in my big vice on the tyre till its just held upright clean all the bearings and internals assemble spacer bearings and evenly distribute some shims each side add or remove shims till there is just almost the imperceptible movement of the whole assembly take care the movement is the spacer and bearings together and not the spacer moving between the bearings I belive (and I havent looked for years) we are looking a 5 thou clearance its amazing what difference one thinnest shim will make. you may now add some grease
once that is settled add the felts (and the nilos rings if you use them) then use more shims to just space the brake plate from the drum just enough to stop it scraping on the edge, nowadays I do one plate at a time using a spacer for one plate doing the E80 nuts up tightish and checking clearance by rotating the brake, with luck the nuts should end up flush with end of the spacer additional shims may have to be added to achive this, it is important.
I stress thats just my way

Helpful, thanks.
I can see now that it’s the smaller shims between the bearing and axle shoulder that determine play in the wheel.
There are two and I’m sure one was bunched in with the larger brass ones.
With a bearing that doesn’t grip, I won’t be able to accurately setup the clearance.
Need to fix it on as mentioned before.
 

Bill Thomas

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Yes you need both bearings with free fit, So that you can work out how many shims you need,
And also the same amount both sides, There are different thickness shims, So you need a micrometer,
Or something else .
So that the axle will be in the middle when finished.
 

danno

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Yes you need both bearings with free fit, So that you can work out how many shims you need,
And also the same amount both sides, There are different thickness shims, So you need a micrometer,
Or something else .
So that the axle will be in the middle when finished.

Thanks.
The bearing is starting to shift by hand now.
 

danno

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Non-VOC Member
Just offering up the wheel and as the drums rotate, it’s a little difficult to line up.
I have a block of wood under the wheel to help.
Also notice that there’s nothing fixed to the drums to stop them rotating, just the tommy bar.
There’s a pair of pegs on each drum (pic). Maybe that’s what they’re for.
Just a little unsure of the positioning as there’s no fixing.
Do the pegs go each side of the fork?
It’ll be quicker next time round :D
 

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Bill Thomas

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They are called Brake plates, Only one peg fits into the fork,
Depends which way round they are fitted,
Bit of a fiddle, But once in, It's nice and snug,
You want the outside nuts flush with the ends of the hollow axle,
So it touches nice on the inside of the fork blades.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Thanks.
I reckon I’m a fair way off doing that but will be useful later.
Just getting the wheel spinning freely and with the correct amount of play is taking a while.
First time job and while I have the tools, I don’t yet have a bench/vice. Using a workmate at the mo.
Will have to use trial and error with wheel in the forks.
Actually having an aversion to wood I never had a workmate stand but if I did for the job I outlined in my post#5 above it would beat a vice every time easier to reach each side of the wheel (vertical position) and a kinder clamp
 
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