H: Hubs, Wheels and Tyres Front wheel shims and bearings

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danno

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Actually having an aversion to wood I never had a workmate stand but if I did for the job I outlined in my post#5 above it would beat a vice every time easier to reach each side of the wheel (vertical position) and a kinder clamp

Yes. It’s one of the original Black & Decker ones. Needs a boot on it to keep it still
during heavy use.
Very useful but do miss a big vice on a solid bench.
 

macvette

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I
Thanks.
I reckon I’m a fair way off doing that but will be useful later.
Just getting the wheel spinning freely and with the correct amount of play is taking a while.
First time job and while I have the tools, I don’t yet have a bench/vice. Using a workmate at the mo.
Will have to use trial and error with wheel in the forks.
I use a workmate turned on it's side to clamp the wheel so that it is on the floor and vertical. This way you can shim the bearings and brake plates off the bike. I check the float using feeler guages and by rotating the the brake assemby rather than the wheel.
If this is not clear, search my post where you will find a photo
 

Albervin

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I think most people have covered most points but here are a few extras. Hollow axles , bearings and shims come in metric and Imperial. They are not interchangeable. The bearings must be a nice fit on the hollow axle so you can obtain the correct end-float. Before fitting brake plates check you have minimal end float in the axle by adjusting the shims, you may have different sizes/numbers on each side. Shim the brake plates so the wheel spins easily without the brakes or water excluders scraping the brake drums. I like the Lightning grease excluders because they do the job very well and can be used with the alloy brake plates if desired. It is important the securing nuts for the axle are absolutely flat so they sit flush on the fork legs. The nuts should be tightened After fitting the wheel. If you want you can take the high spots off the shoes with a file or emery paper but best to wear a mask when doing so. I do not grease the brakes via the nipples as you cannot see how much has reached where it needs to be; I just check every time the wheel comes off for a tyre change. When I bought my Shadow there must have been over two tablespoons of grease inside the brakes!! While you are at it you could grease the speedo drive and oil the speedo cable. It is all time consuming and you won't be the first person who finds they have to go through the process twice to get it right.
 

danno

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I think most people have covered most points but here are a few extras. Hollow axles , bearings and shims come in metric and Imperial. They are not interchangeable. The bearings must be a nice fit on the hollow axle so you can obtain the correct end-float. Before fitting brake plates check you have minimal end float in the axle by adjusting the shims, you may have different sizes/numbers on each side. Shim the brake plates so the wheel spins easily without the brakes or water excluders scraping the brake drums. I like the Lightning grease excluders because they do the job very well and can be used with the alloy brake plates if desired. It is important the securing nuts for the axle are absolutely flat so they sit flush on the fork legs. The nuts should be tightened After fitting the wheel. If you want you can take the high spots off the shoes with a file or emery paper but best to wear a mask when doing so. I do not grease the brakes via the nipples as you cannot see how much has reached where it needs to be; I just check every time the wheel comes off for a tyre change. When I bought my Shadow there must have been over two tablespoons of grease inside the brakes!! While you are at it you could grease the speedo drive and oil the speedo cable. It is all time consuming and you won't be the first person who finds they have to go through the process twice to get it right.

Very helpful, thanks.
Wasn’t sure about when to tighten the locking nuts but that explains it.
Had to apply heat to remove one bearing from the axle and have taken a fraction off the the inside of the bearing with very fine emery.
I assume play is only detectable once the wheel is in and lockup up.
 

Bill Thomas

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It's best to do it in stages, First work out the clearance of the bearings, It's best to do it without grease !!.
You want just a nat's free play, Forget everything else for a bit, You can feel it,
You will have to make up bits of tube or something, Both sides, So that you can do the outer nuts up tight on the bench,
Put too many shims in first, Same both sides until you feel too much play, With the nuts done up !.
Then take a shim out, One each side until there is just a little play.
Once you are happy take apart and grease the bearings, Not too much !!.
Then start on shimming for the Brake Plates.
When the wheel is in the forks you may find the Brake lever comes back too much, To the handle bar,
Talk to us again, Cheers Bill.
 

Vincent Brake

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I found that play is just needed for one a thousands only.
When the bearings are a good interference fit.

I tested once or twice a new hub.
Did a thou clearance.

Than nip up and heat the whole lot up.
Like a good mountain ride down.
Than checked and bearings were still not binding.

Its due to the interference fit becoming less, hence bearing cup bigger. Hence again: More axial play.
Taken again alu lenght heat expansion.
Nice finding. But i would not recommend it.

Its the not the same with nipping up your spindle at the rear fork pivot. Or using aluminium hollow wheel axles.
The tension can easily be so big it compresses ones hollow axle.
So always check play when the total is assembled
 

greg brillus

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How many people on here think that the bearing clearance becomes less, as the hub heats up from a decent ride............???
 

Albervin

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Greg, as a chemist that sounds like a trick question. The alloy expands more than steel therefore the clearances would change, yes. But how much heat from the brakes is transferred to the hub? You are talking about axial load? Or the clearance of the bearing cup in the hub? My brain is scrambling.....
 

vibrac

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I did have a hub sieze once for lack of grease the amount of heat transfered is normally minimal. But if lack of bearing lubrication occurs then heat builds up quickly
 
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