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H: Hubs, Wheels and Tyres Front wheel shims and bearings

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timetraveller

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There are, or used to be, two models of workmate. There is the cheaper one and a much stronger 'workmate professional'.. They are generally not advertised but are well worth the extra cost.
 

timetraveller

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I've had mine a lot longer than that and the wood is still in good order but I have kept it dry. Also just checked on line after having written #41 above and they are still available, including second hand caveat emptor
 

danno

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Plywood still ok on this one. Got to be over 35 years old and has been stored outside for a while.
It’s a Dual - Height Professional one. Just missing four of the adjustable plastic feet from one side and the handy black wedge clamps.
Not sure if they’re available still.
 
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danno

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Have found a whole bunch of spare bearing shims in a spares tin and some unused ‘special sprag grease’.
May come in useful.
Need to find my digital vernier gauge though for accurate thickness either side.
I have the normal type but only shows mm and 1/16”.
 

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Robert Watson

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Or as my friend calls them

Very near Calipers.

Do yourself a favour and buy a couple of micrometers. If you are playing with these things on a regular basis you will not regret the few dollars they cost these days. The first ones I looked at on Canadian Amazon was a set of 3, 0-1", 1-2", and 2-3", in a nice kit with standard checking gauges for $109 Cdn ( about US$ 80)
 

Bill Thomas

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Maybe better to use proper wheel bearing grease,
The only reason I didn't say Vernier, Was I didn't know how to spell it :D .
Can't think how they make Micrometers and Vernier so cheap !.
 

danno

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Sorry, thought the pic had gone up.
Yes, won’t use that grease :D I have Castrol LM high melting point stuff.
I’m sure I have a micrometer too. It’s a kind of G shape and in it’s own box.
Again, it’s around somewhere.
Thought that digital was better for accuracy.
 

Bill Thomas

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If you have a Vernier in thou's, With the round clock bit, They are very good.
Be careful if you are taking the plates and bearings off again, Those little shims are beggers, Some stick and others fall on the floor, Then you will have to do it all over again !!
Don't forget the felts, If the felts are new, I cut them in half, They tend to be a bit thick,
If using the old ones , They are already sqashed !!.
 

Chris Launders

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The tommy bar shouldn't be nipping anything to do with the wheel, it is only holding the wheel in the forks. the hollow spindle and nuts set everything to do with the wheel, bearings, brakeplates and shims.
 

Bill Thomas

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And a dial gauge too !!, My God , You will be doing Cams next :) .
I had forgot how many things you have to know about a Front Wheel,
After 55 years of playing, And a few Bangs on the Head, I am surprized I remember anything !.
 

vibrac

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And a dial gauge too !!, My God , You will be doing Cams next :) .
I had forgot how many things you have to know about a Front Wheel,
After 55 years of playing, And a few Bangs on the Head, I am surprized I remember anything !.
And half is re-written when you come to alloy racing plates with no nuts
in fact with my history thats what I played with for 50 years its only recently I got back to steel plates
 

Bill Thomas

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I was Praying, No one would mention Alloy Plates !, I don't think Danno could handle it :) ,
"No Nuts !!! "
I am sure I could not put it into words.
 

A_HRD

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Danno,
The larger micrometer is for the accurate measurement of items ranging from 1 to 2 inch diameter
Peter B
 

danno

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Danno,
The larger micrometer is for the accurate measurement of items ranging from 1 to 2 inch diameter
Peter B
Ok thanks. I was wondering.
I’m not quite figuring out the one with the dials though or even if it’s a kit.
One dial is an old British make and the other is Japanese, on the right.
 
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Bill Thomas

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I have Alloy Plates on the front, "No nuts ", But I use Nuts on my REAR Alloy Plate, On the ex L/ning,
Have I got it wrong ??, Been like it since1980, Don't know who made the plates, NOT Roger Slater !!.
 
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