Misc: Everything Else Front Brake Adjusters on Series B

CoreyL

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Hi All,

My front brake adjusters are near the end of their travel (see pic). Am I correct in thinking that if I reduce the length of the shorter, right side, cable, that I can screw in the adjusters on both sides to regain some additional ability to take up slack?

Thanks,
Corey
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5230.jpg
    IMG_5230.jpg
    290.4 KB · Views: 54

Dinny

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Adjust the brake arms on the serration down a bit to give you more adjustment. You will also get better leverage. Check the shoes are good though while you are at it.

Mark
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Remember the serrations on the brake arms act as a vernier. If you can't obtain a good adjustment then rotate the H13 serrated washer 45º and try again. Of course this is all dependent on the thickness of your brake linings.
 

CoreyL

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
As I understand it, the brake arm will exert maximum torque when the angle between the cable and the arm is 90 degrees with the brake applied. That's how it is now on my bike. If I rotate the brake arms to take up the cable slack, the arms will be at less than 90 degrees to the cable when the brake is applied. Maybe it's not a big difference if one move a single serration or less?
 

davidd

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Corey,

I don't believe doing what you suggest will work. However, I think the cables look good in the photo. Yes, they are getting close to losing adjustment, but I wonder how long it will take to use it up. I also wonder how much lining is left on the shoes. I would hate to change the cables if the linings need replacement.

I also believe the best place for the brake arm is 90 degrees. But, if the arms could be adjusted a bit lower I might do that. I suspect that the angle will not have a big impact on braking performance if it is close.

David
 

Robert Watson

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
One thing I have seen recently on two bikes that should have known better was the outer on the front brake cables being too long and "bottoming" before full force was applied to the brakes. Always a good thing to check. Indeed they are only there to sort of protect the inner cable as they are free floating and should NEVER come under compression!
 

Marcus Bowden

VOC Hon. Overseas Representative
VOC Member
Check shoe cam heels and the amount of movement, one wants as little movement as possible, so long as the shoes are not touching the drum. I make steel heels on the cam end of the shoe with higher ends so I can cut Bandit S/S 3/4"band/strapping in lengths and place them equally into the steel shoe ends, keep adding till shoe touches drum when trying to mount it, the cut shims are 0.030" (0.37mm), on one of the bikes I've just checked I fitted 4 or 5 shims under each heel, and with bonded linings, one can go down even further. I like to wear things out as much as possible, value for money.
Having had done a quantity of AM4 linings 40 plus years ago found a lining had dropped off !!!??? how many more are ready to part company from the shoe?
Question:-
AM4's when fitted to the front do tend to squeal on light applications then quieter on hard application, but never hear a squeak from the back brakes. Nor do the spring hooks break.
bananaman.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Top