Float Level 276's
- Thread starter rfriedman
- Start date
wld50,
I have had success with this Loctite product when other option weren't practical. Might be worth a try. The bolt torque specifications after repair are impressive.
http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/FORMSTRK-EN.PDF
Ken Smith
I have had success with this Loctite product when other option weren't practical. Might be worth a try. The bolt torque specifications after repair are impressive.
http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/FORMSTRK-EN.PDF
Ken Smith
Loctite Form-a thread
Looks very useful in lots of places eg the mag cover as well
www.midwayuk.com/apps/eproductpage.exe/AddToCart?SaleItemID=986916&TabID=0&Quantity=1&x=37&y=9
From Midway seems to be £16.27 plus £8.85 for postage
wld'50
Looks very useful in lots of places eg the mag cover as well
www.midwayuk.com/apps/eproductpage.exe/AddToCart?SaleItemID=986916&TabID=0&Quantity=1&x=37&y=9
From Midway seems to be £16.27 plus £8.85 for postage
wld'50
Form-A Thread
Loctite's blurb says the material is good to 148 C and is recommended for manifold studs, clamp bolts, drain plugs, pan fasteners (whatever they are?) and valve cover bolts. Resists most solvents and oil including gasoline (possibly an alternative word for petrol). Hardens in about 5 minutes and max strength achieved in 2 hours. Loctite make the point that it isn't to be used on critical threads though such as internal engine parts -
The way it works is that you coat the bolt with release agent, mix the 2 part acrylate material (a bit like like araldite) from two syringes, fill the hole with the mix and feed in the screw. Unscrew it after '5-10 minutes' when the material has gone semi-hard and then leave it to cure.
I first tried it out on a partly stripped thread in the magneto cover. After a couple of failures to produce the desired thread (too slow in removing the bolt the first time so that when I used a ring spanner to unscrew the bolt some of the threadlock material came out with it, the second time too much 'Release agent' on the body of the screw which prevented the thread forming around that area), the third time was fine and I started feeling happy enough to try it on the carburettor, - it seems to have worked.
Loctite make the point that it isnt to be used on critical threads - I dont think the throttle stop bolt would be classed as such, as if the thread fails it would mean that the slide level would fall lower and affect the idling. (I'm happy to listen to advice as always though)
Many thanks Ken for the recommendation. Certainly it would be worth having on a long trip/ rally.
Midway are the only people I could find who stock it in the UK, they were reasonably fast in supply - it took a week - even though they told me it had to come in from the USA.
Loctite's blurb says the material is good to 148 C and is recommended for manifold studs, clamp bolts, drain plugs, pan fasteners (whatever they are?) and valve cover bolts. Resists most solvents and oil including gasoline (possibly an alternative word for petrol). Hardens in about 5 minutes and max strength achieved in 2 hours. Loctite make the point that it isn't to be used on critical threads though such as internal engine parts -
The way it works is that you coat the bolt with release agent, mix the 2 part acrylate material (a bit like like araldite) from two syringes, fill the hole with the mix and feed in the screw. Unscrew it after '5-10 minutes' when the material has gone semi-hard and then leave it to cure.
I first tried it out on a partly stripped thread in the magneto cover. After a couple of failures to produce the desired thread (too slow in removing the bolt the first time so that when I used a ring spanner to unscrew the bolt some of the threadlock material came out with it, the second time too much 'Release agent' on the body of the screw which prevented the thread forming around that area), the third time was fine and I started feeling happy enough to try it on the carburettor, - it seems to have worked.
Loctite make the point that it isnt to be used on critical threads - I dont think the throttle stop bolt would be classed as such, as if the thread fails it would mean that the slide level would fall lower and affect the idling. (I'm happy to listen to advice as always though)
Many thanks Ken for the recommendation. Certainly it would be worth having on a long trip/ rally.
Pan fasteners are the machine screws that hold the oil pan to the bottom of the crankcase of typical car engines. Would the English term be sump bolts?
Oil Pan
