Misc: Charging Systems Fitting Dynamo with Eccentric Adaptor

Rob H

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Just had my dynamo refurbed which is a later 3" D6 miller. It was fitted with an eccentric adaptor but unfortunately I did not mark the position of this relative to the dynamo.

Does anyone have any tips for refitting this to ensure the correct mesh of the drive gears?

regs
 

mercurycrest

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Just had my dynamo refurbed which is a later 3" D6 miller. It was fitted with an eccentric adaptor but unfortunately I did not mark the position of this relative to the dynamo.

Does anyone have any tips for refitting this to ensure the correct mesh of the drive gears?

regs
I wedged my adapter slot open a bit so I could move it around when adjusting.
 

Rob H

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Will try that it was too tight to turn when I removed it.

What about the mesh of the sprocket and primary drive to ensure it is not to tight, I am guessing that you just need to centre the PD16 dynamo sprocket boss in the hole?

Do I need to put some silicone or three bond on the joint to stop primary drive oil leakage?
 

Peter Holmes

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The eccentric sleeve should enable you to find a good vertical meshing position with the reduced height central teeth on the clutch sprocket, not to close with teeth touching or you will get a horrible whine which you might think is emanating from somewhere else more serious, the eccentric sleeve, if adjusted correctly should also enable you to centralise the dynamo fairly central in the primary chaicase hole, you then adjust the dynamo sprocket laterally, it should be dead centre on the central row of the primary chain, you can then seal everything up with silicon, but you should be using an oil thrower to keep the oil on the inside of the chain case, and some people have found that an airtight chain case is undesirable, I am sure that all this is covered in KTB and Vincent by Paul Richardson, probably in more detail that I have put on here.
 

Rob H

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Thanks, I checked out richardsons and KTB but no really any info in them about fitting and setting up
 

timetraveller

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Rob, I wonder if you are not overthinking this and imagine that it is harder to do than it really is. There are two eccentricities. One is the 'B' adaptor and the other is the dynamo itself wherein the input shaft is offset from the centre of the 3" diameter of the dynamo body. Rotating either will move the dynamo pinion up or down. However, if you take some of the above advice and put a wedge into the slot on the 'B' adaptor and then play about rotating either or both you will find that in some positions the boss on the input to the dynamo fouls the front/rear/top/bottom of the hole in the crank case casting. Have a play about without trying to finish the job and get a feel of what rotation of what part does what. It will only take few attempts for you to get a good feel for what is happening. Then you can go for the final one and fix it in place. It is not complicated. You just need to play with it first and get a feel of what does what. If you are not sure about the mesh of the sprocket into the primary drive chain then there should be appreciable slop. If you cannot rock the pinion backwards and forwards, say, 2 or 3 mm then it will probably be too tight and will whine.
 
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