I seem to remember someone saying that they didn't crimp the ferrules on their oil lines.They simply used some thick gasket goo on the rubber line where it went over the pipe, and some more gasket goo to hold the ferrule in place. Can anyone comment on alternatives to crimping the ferrule?
A: Oil Pipework Ferrules...
- Thread starter Bazlerker
- Start date
I never crimp mine, and don't think the factory did. (Someone can correct me if wrong.) The lines are under little pressure, so don't need very tight connections - the ferrules just need to compress the rubber a bit against the metal tube. Hylomar or similar will make fitting easier, and help sealing. You can make the joints tighter by wrapping teflon tape or similar around the rubber where it fits into the ferrule.
As there is no pressure in either fuel or oil lines crimping is not necessary. As long as the ferrule is a light push fit on the pipe and the fitting a light push fit in it, it won't leak. If the rubber takes a set after a period of time a turn of insulating tape under the ferrule will restore the fit. If the fit is too tight a taper can be used to ease the rubber. Cheers, Stu.
By coincidence I was discussing just this with Roy Robertson two nights ago. It seems for racing they have to be crimped or they will not pass scrutineering.
TouringGodet
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The bike that is closest to showroom condition that I know of, is the Bob Chantland Series C Shadow. That bike, and the Shadow my father bought new, were both built in late 1952, and both left the factory the same day, in the same delivery to Indian Sales San Francisco. Both bikes where originally sold from dealers in the Los Angeles area. My father rode his bike for only a few years, about 17K miles, then had an issue with the motor, took it apart, and it then sat in our garage until the early 1980s. The Chantland bike was purchased by someone that rode the bike for way less miles, less than 3K miles. I am not saying all bikes had crimped ferrules, but these two bikes have crimped ferrules, that I believe are factory. Pictures ferrules1 and 2 are of the Chantland bike, and A-D are my Shadow. Yes, even those few years my father rode his bike, he did change a few ferrules to thumbscrew clamps, but those 50's era clamps survived untouched, most or all of the other ferrules are untouched as well. Some of the herringbone on my Shadow is from 60 years ago.
Chantland:
Mine:
Chantland:
Mine:
Given the dire supply-chain problems during the 1940s and first half of the 50s in the UK, who is to say that the factory didn't receive a slack-fitting batch of ferrules from somewhere and needed to crimp them to make good until a "proper" batch were received?
Even to this day I am finding new ferrules that don't fit properly; (or is it the case that the herringbone is of the wrong size to fit the correct ferrules!!?
).
I've only been messing with Vincents for 50-odd years and I've never seen crimped ferrules on allegedly factory-original bikes in the UK. Perhaps the rumours that the 'problem bikes' were the ones destined for export is true?
Anyway Steve D, make sure you keep that bike as it is - the rarity value of the crimps might have added another £10K to the value at auction.
Peter B
PS Never had the need for crimps on any of my Vins, ever.
Even to this day I am finding new ferrules that don't fit properly; (or is it the case that the herringbone is of the wrong size to fit the correct ferrules!!?
).I've only been messing with Vincents for 50-odd years and I've never seen crimped ferrules on allegedly factory-original bikes in the UK. Perhaps the rumours that the 'problem bikes' were the ones destined for export is true?
Anyway Steve D, make sure you keep that bike as it is - the rarity value of the crimps might have added another £10K to the value at auction.
Peter B
PS Never had the need for crimps on any of my Vins, ever.
A fellow in town takes the hose and grinds a small groove near the end, installs it over the tube or banjo and lock wires it in place, and the slips a ferrule over top. No need to crimp that, even if the ferrule is a bit loose!
I saw that on Roberts bike, I guess he saw it on the town fella's bike, now it's on mine. So there are now at least three reported cases of the invisible wire clamped hoses in the BC Lower Mainland. There might be even more out there.
Infectious but effective!
Re the herringbone hose- I bought a small new piece from the Spares Co a few years ago. It was the most expensive hose I've ever purchased by a factor of ten.
Sadly, it was a loose fit over the pipe at one end, however when flipped around it required a bevel cut to start on the pipe. I think it had nearly a sixteenth of taper in It's ten inch length.
It's still in a drawer here somewhere.
That's when I switched to common fuel injection hose from Napa or similar.
Well it's an early engine and I've read that the early bikes came with smooth hose.
Not that it would matter on my bike.
Glen
Infectious but effective!
Re the herringbone hose- I bought a small new piece from the Spares Co a few years ago. It was the most expensive hose I've ever purchased by a factor of ten.
Sadly, it was a loose fit over the pipe at one end, however when flipped around it required a bevel cut to start on the pipe. I think it had nearly a sixteenth of taper in It's ten inch length.
It's still in a drawer here somewhere.
That's when I switched to common fuel injection hose from Napa or similar.
Well it's an early engine and I've read that the early bikes came with smooth hose.
Not that it would matter on my bike.
Glen
Last edited:
It's been on mine too for many a year
TouringGodet
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I've had problems the last few years with leaky fuel connections, seems to me the hose available recently is slightly too large on the I.D., or not as spongy as before. I like to think of the ferrules as being more cosmetic, that the hose should pretty much seal on its own. I heard the Vancouver trick of using lock wire before, and I like the idea.