Faulty Alternator or Regulator

BigEd

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I know this is not Vincent stuff but I did put a solid state voltage regulator on my triumph wired it as instructions and double checked every thing and it discharged the battery right out down to two volts it recovered after being recharged I am back to a using a old trusty MC2 now
There are definitely some poor electronics out there and many cheap units are poorly designed and current leakage will drain a battery when parked up. As Roslyn points out it pays to use components with a good name and go with what you know works.
 

brian gains

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hopefully i'll get a chance to check direct output today. i should think gearing is around 1:1, i've had no reason to pull the primary drive cover but as the alt' is driven directly from the motor sprocket (Newby belt primary) it must be around that ratio.
Since this issue became apparent all I.ve done, apart from check battery condition, is tighten V belt.
 

Bill Thomas

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I would learn what was under that cover and carry a spare belt ?,
My car mini alternator slips a bit if it's raining, But a little slip is good ?, With a toothed belt ,
They sometimes break.
 

vibrac

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I have a Newby belt drive and clutch on the Flash with a Albion box I have only used it for a few competition outings a year but the belt must be 4 years old I suppose being basically rubber it has a short standing life.
It is like most voters kept in the dark. any feedback?
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brian gains

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not a big fan of toothed final drive belts as I have had experience of the all or nothing outcome when thy fail, with primary drive belts never had an issue.
Maybe 'if' I was to go touring I'd carry a spare, but my roadside replacement kit comprises of a fuse, chain split link, couple of plugs and decomp' cable which has doubled quite satisfactorily as a replacement for a failed clutch cable.
As a general rule primary belts are thought to benefit from some cooling air flow, or at least in the HD world that is the consensus.
 

Chris Launders

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I've just changed the primary drive belt on my Norvin after many many years, not because there was anything wrong but because I "think" I may have finally cured it leaking oil from the main bearing, so wanted to get rid of the contaminated belt and start with everything clean and dry.
 
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Bill Cannon

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When I first got my bike running, after not many miles the belt tore itself to pieces.
Turned out it was an oil resistant belt which was a big no-no.
I fitted a crank seal and a standard belt which ran for about 10,000 miles over an embarrassing number of years and was only replaced because I thought it was time.
Cheers Bill
 

brian gains

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checked the AC output from the alternator which reads 40 Vac, with the motor running at approx 2K revs battery indicates 13,08 V dc which is marginally higher than the 13.05 V static reading,
I was hoping that the running battery would indicate a lower voltage than static charge in which casr the regulator could have been identified as the duff component. Can solid state regulators (diodes?) gradually fail, my only previous experience is they just cease to work.
 

vibrac

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As a general rule primary belts are thought to benefit from some cooling air flow, or at least in the HD world that is the consensus.
I did worry about air flow but looking right was important on the Flash and I an not running it for hours. But on the Egli Comet with forward thinking forty years ago :rolleyes: I bought a primary cover for pence with a hole milled where the ESA had made a break for freedom. I knew that in twenty years time I would be able to use it in a belt drive that had not then been invented o_O (never throw anything out:D)
NB no inner cover as I just have a engine plate for the AMC box
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Comet Rider

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Brian,
At that sort of revs the regulator should be putting out around 14.2 V, so the regulator is definitely suspect.

If there wasn't Covid around I would offer you a once over check of the bike, either at yours or mine.

best of luck
Neil
 
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