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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
ET48 Mag/ATD Pinion
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<blockquote data-quote="oexing" data-source="post: 148373" data-attributes="member: 1493"><p>I have been meditating about choice of material of steady plates and went for alu 7075, why ? The engine is alu and with steel or worse titanium you deal with very different heat growth. So in a hot engine that does something to spindle distances which are not negligible at these sizes. So a no for me on a road engine. </p><p> i did not care about any timing marks if there had been any at all. My logic is to set two clocks on valve spring cups and turn the camshaft for equal lift. In this position I scribe one tooth on the camwheel with the Dremel and same on engine case close to each other for great alignment later. Do same job on second cam and set lines on wheel and engine. So later you just get the timing disc on crank end zeroed with piston stop in plug thread both directions used - on rear cylinder. Then turn crank with idler gear fitted to 4 degrees before TDC rear pot and look for a slot on crank end that fits the half time gear in exactly this position. Then turn the crank one turn plus 50 degrees minus 4 and see if the front camwheel can be engaged while the marks on wheel and case lign up . If not so you´d have to press out the gear and adjust for error. You can check these alignments all the time when turning the engine over as there is no hunting tooth problem in combination with old original marks on all gears. Hope I was clear enough or was I wrong for some BS in my description ? </p><p></p><p> Vic</p><p>[ATTACH=full]45841[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]45842[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]45845[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="oexing, post: 148373, member: 1493"] I have been meditating about choice of material of steady plates and went for alu 7075, why ? The engine is alu and with steel or worse titanium you deal with very different heat growth. So in a hot engine that does something to spindle distances which are not negligible at these sizes. So a no for me on a road engine. i did not care about any timing marks if there had been any at all. My logic is to set two clocks on valve spring cups and turn the camshaft for equal lift. In this position I scribe one tooth on the camwheel with the Dremel and same on engine case close to each other for great alignment later. Do same job on second cam and set lines on wheel and engine. So later you just get the timing disc on crank end zeroed with piston stop in plug thread both directions used - on rear cylinder. Then turn crank with idler gear fitted to 4 degrees before TDC rear pot and look for a slot on crank end that fits the half time gear in exactly this position. Then turn the crank one turn plus 50 degrees minus 4 and see if the front camwheel can be engaged while the marks on wheel and case lign up . If not so you´d have to press out the gear and adjust for error. You can check these alignments all the time when turning the engine over as there is no hunting tooth problem in combination with old original marks on all gears. Hope I was clear enough or was I wrong for some BS in my description ? Vic [ATTACH type="full"]45841[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]45842[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full"]45845[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
ET48 Mag/ATD Pinion
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