E: Engine ET162 dimensions

craig

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Historical reference for 1947 Rapide ET162 Steady Plate Distance Piece.
I found my OEM spacers from #323

20210105_ET162Stamp.jpg
20210105_ET162L.jpg
20210105_ET162OD.jpg

So whos job was it to mini stamp ET162s.
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
Just turned them a little long and will trim them when the steady plate is ready to go on.

Thank you to everyone who contributed to the thread. Glad I asked the question and hope everyone else also learned a little bit.

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Marcus Bowden

VOC Hon. Overseas Representative
VOC Member
The marking of part numbers on each item only seems to be on early machines, the time it must have taken as they all seem to have been done by machine or engraved.
 

Marcus Bowden

VOC Hon. Overseas Representative
VOC Member
Most certainly not FAKE Bill, the early s/s seat struts were stamped along with rocker caps, girdraulic fork spindles collars too, although later than series "B's". I've even got a gear indicator lever pinch bolt with its number on it, and a 3/8" b.s.f. RFM bolt with the 2BA thread in it for holding the brake switch. I couldn't make stampings that good & neat but do have a lot of stamps down to 1/8" to 3/8" had to re-stamp my own cases as too much polishing, one of those foolish teenage activities, trouble is one has to keep it up occasionally. Last time 2010, waiting for Bob Dunn to do my B/End. Next time doing it myself with plain floating bushes.
bananaman.


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Bill Thomas

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VOC Member
Just pulling your leg Marcus,
I did the polishing thing just before 1970 On my Blue Bike,
Redid the shape of the bit where the pushrods go in, Did it all by hand !,
But over the years the stones etc made mess of it underneath !,
I still think it's worth doing, Maybe not all over ?.
Cheers Bill.
 

Vincent Brake

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VOC Member
I guess we should not be surprised that Greg has had to deal with all sorts of problems, including variable camshaft lengths. He has no way of controlling what shows up at his door for fixing.

I build with all new gears and spindles. It may seem excessive, but the reliability of these engines is incredible with a new timing chest and I feel that is a very important requirement for a racer. I use only Megacycle cams because of the quality. I use all the Maughan parts for the timing chest, including the big idler boss. I use the shoulder of the large idler boss as the datum, but I have never had a cam that exceeded the height of that datum. In fact, the datum from the idler boss is quite a bit higher than the instruction sheets anticipated, so those stated dimensions are often of little use to someone assembling a new timing chest.

There is no washer called for behind the camshaft between the shaft and the case, but when lining up the followers with the cam lobes I am always forced to install one in that position. This means that I have to install the same size shim under the other gears to keep the steady plate level. Fortunately, the Arbor shims from McMaster Carr are up to the job and I have never found any cupping or softness when using them.

I suppose the answer is that you need an initial datum location when setting up a new timing chest and the shoulder of the large idler boss is quite tall and easy to install in place. If you have to shim behind the cam to align the followers to the lobes then the top plane of the cam gear becomes the new datum that requires the remaining gears to be adjusted to this new dimension with the object of keeping the steady plate flat.

Bill is spot on about the Simmonds nuts on the cam spindle. I run a tap through the nut to score the nylon. I also run them on and off an old cam spindle held in a vice. There is nothing worse than tightening up this nut and having the 5/16" threaded stem break off due to the high friction fit provided by the nylon insert.

David
Thanx for the mcmaster carr, i ordered a bunch of shims today, after having some lasered form C70 hard steel (at a price...) at 0.1 till 0,6mm all diameters...

for spindles i use my own made from Bohler K340 to 62-64 HRC than machine down to suit, and indeed @greg brillus you are right when 0,05 interf fit it bulbs a bit at the cylinder surface, (scraped down) but a new case will hold it better. After machineing sometimes i do Nitride them to 70Hrc. (annealing K340 is only at 550degr)

when one wants two properities in a part (hard surface and though middle), i made two parts, get rid of the nyloc nut and made bolts from 1000N/mm2 (say 12.9 bolt) with M8x1 and hole 2 mm.
when one carbonize the standard spindles, one should blank off the thread, but thats cumbersome, so not done, so now and than it snaps. (nicht zu verwirren mit Schnaps @erik )
Cheers
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oexing

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
When you do your own spindles get case hardening steel. Just machine all diameters you want to carbonize with some oversize for grinding. Don´t finish the threaded end and any other parts you´d like to stay soft. The heat treating company is not keen on doing protective coats. So you just do all sizes which need carbonizing and order ONLY carbonizing but no hardening yet. Get back your items and do all other sizes for semi finishing , oil holes, so only then you can have items hardened. You could do thread cutting even then as only some dimensions will be hard which got carbonized earlier. Protecting coats will be a risky way so better avoid this step and do as I suggested.

Vic
 
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