E: Engine ET104 heavy duty

vibrac

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A few years ago I purchased some relacement alternative ET104 push rod tube /crankcase sealing glands I know they worked well where the standard ones failed, I think that crankcase may have come around for reuse and I think have used it on my electric leg comet with standard seals as I have a leak in spite of lots of care. So I think I need some more special ET104 seals I dont think they were the O rings favored by some or X rings they did seem more solid that the standard ones but for the life of me I cannot remember who on the forum sold them to me. who was it? or alternatively a source of a solution would be apreciated.
Oh dear all almost sorted and the UFM has to come off again, Ah the Joys of Vincenteering :(
 

Albervin

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A few years ago I purchased some relacement alternative ET104 push rod tube /crankcase sealing glands I know they worked well where the standard ones failed, I think that crankcase may have come around for reuse and I think have used it on my electric leg comet with standard seals as I have a leak in spite of lots of care. So I think I need some more special ET104 seals I dont think they were the O rings favored by some or X rings they did seem more solid that the standard ones but for the life of me I cannot remember who on the forum sold them to me. who was it? or alternatively a source of a solution would be apreciated.
Oh dear all almost sorted and the UFM has to come off again, Ah the Joys of Vincenteering :(
Tim, Neal Videan has some new seals available. They are brass (?) with an X ring seal. Good reports so far.
 

oexing

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Vibrac, you should get lots of o-rings for your problem, just pick some types for trying for size and grip. No need for square section seals, these may not work well with misaligned shrouds and a pain when taking heads on and off. When porosity or scratches in the recesses is a factor, well, some silicone will be required. These seal recesses don´t align well with the ball cups in the followers so I did o-ring seal holders 1 mm excentric for my alu push rods to get good clearances in the shrouds.

Vic
 

Bill Thomas

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To save taking the head off, I am sure Noman Lord told us of a way with some black sticky stuff ?.
I would have thought with the glues that are around now you could get a new ring, Cut it, Glue it,
and slide it down. Before we know it, The riding season will be gone !.
 

oexing

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You can glue an o-ring with instant glue, problem is the cut. And the glue is harder than the o-ring and avoiding a mini step at the cut is not easy , so success is questionable.

Vic
 

vibrac

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VOC Member
I always use some black gunge when assembling (cant recall what it is but I get it from Ben he uses for some job in the flying bricks... water pump?) and I have never got anywhere with a cut and shut in place. No I am afraid it will have to come off, but if only I could find who I got those seals from, I thought it was Norman but I asked him last year.
 

BigEd

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I always use some black gunge when assembling (cant recall what it is but I get it from Ben he uses for some job in the flying bricks... water pump?) and I have never got anywhere with a cut and shut in place. No I am afraid it will have to come off, but if only I could find who I got those seals from, ..........
I usually put a bit of black mastic on when fitting and you can put a bit around the seal once fitted and then smooth it around with your finger as a belt and braces exercise.

If you have the sizes, have you tried looking online at somewhere like "Simply Bearings" or similar online suppliers to see if they have anything?
 

Trickymicky

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I have replaced the ET104's without lifting the heads on a Comet and a Rapide. That was about 2 years ago and all's well so far.
The method may make some cringe, but it worked for me. After removing the pushrods and lowering the tube enough , i carefully stretched a new stock replacment seal over the pushrod flange , using the right angled end of an engineers scriber and some lubricant , and then the same again, over the ET123 seal and nut.
By now, the seal is looking pretty sorry for itself , but left a while seemed to return nearer to its original size . It then has to be stretched enough to get it past a really small gap between one of the cylinder fins and the pushrod tube, but again, it returned close enough to its original size to get it in the crankcase. I did all 6, and non of them leak.
 

vibrac

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But mine were new standard ones to start with so I would prefer these modified ones if I could only find out where I got them from..
 
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