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E: Engine ET104 heavy duty

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
A few years ago I purchased some relacement alternative ET104 push rod tube /crankcase sealing glands I know they worked well where the standard ones failed, I think that crankcase may have come around for reuse and I think have used it on my electric leg comet with standard seals as I have a leak in spite of lots of care. So I think I need some more special ET104 seals I dont think they were the O rings favored by some or X rings they did seem more solid that the standard ones but for the life of me I cannot remember who on the forum sold them to me. who was it? or alternatively a source of a solution would be apreciated.
Oh dear all almost sorted and the UFM has to come off again, Ah the Joys of Vincenteering :(
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
A few years ago I purchased some relacement alternative ET104 push rod tube /crankcase sealing glands I know they worked well where the standard ones failed, I think that crankcase may have come around for reuse and I think have used it on my electric leg comet with standard seals as I have a leak in spite of lots of care. So I think I need some more special ET104 seals I dont think they were the O rings favored by some or X rings they did seem more solid that the standard ones but for the life of me I cannot remember who on the forum sold them to me. who was it? or alternatively a source of a solution would be apreciated.
Oh dear all almost sorted and the UFM has to come off again, Ah the Joys of Vincenteering :(
Tim, Neal Videan has some new seals available. They are brass (?) with an X ring seal. Good reports so far.
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Vibrac, you should get lots of o-rings for your problem, just pick some types for trying for size and grip. No need for square section seals, these may not work well with misaligned shrouds and a pain when taking heads on and off. When porosity or scratches in the recesses is a factor, well, some silicone will be required. These seal recesses don´t align well with the ball cups in the followers so I did o-ring seal holders 1 mm excentric for my alu push rods to get good clearances in the shrouds.

Vic
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
To save taking the head off, I am sure Noman Lord told us of a way with some black sticky stuff ?.
I would have thought with the glues that are around now you could get a new ring, Cut it, Glue it,
and slide it down. Before we know it, The riding season will be gone !.
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
You can glue an o-ring with instant glue, problem is the cut. And the glue is harder than the o-ring and avoiding a mini step at the cut is not easy , so success is questionable.

Vic
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I always use some black gunge when assembling (cant recall what it is but I get it from Ben he uses for some job in the flying bricks... water pump?) and I have never got anywhere with a cut and shut in place. No I am afraid it will have to come off, but if only I could find who I got those seals from, I thought it was Norman but I asked him last year.
 

BigEd

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
VOC Forum Moderator
I always use some black gunge when assembling (cant recall what it is but I get it from Ben he uses for some job in the flying bricks... water pump?) and I have never got anywhere with a cut and shut in place. No I am afraid it will have to come off, but if only I could find who I got those seals from, ..........
I usually put a bit of black mastic on when fitting and you can put a bit around the seal once fitted and then smooth it around with your finger as a belt and braces exercise.

If you have the sizes, have you tried looking online at somewhere like "Simply Bearings" or similar online suppliers to see if they have anything?
 

Trickymicky

Website User
VOC Member
I have replaced the ET104's without lifting the heads on a Comet and a Rapide. That was about 2 years ago and all's well so far.
The method may make some cringe, but it worked for me. After removing the pushrods and lowering the tube enough , i carefully stretched a new stock replacment seal over the pushrod flange , using the right angled end of an engineers scriber and some lubricant , and then the same again, over the ET123 seal and nut.
By now, the seal is looking pretty sorry for itself , but left a while seemed to return nearer to its original size . It then has to be stretched enough to get it past a really small gap between one of the cylinder fins and the pushrod tube, but again, it returned close enough to its original size to get it in the crankcase. I did all 6, and non of them leak.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
But mine were new standard ones to start with so I would prefer these modified ones if I could only find out where I got them from..
 

Marcus Bowden

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
We use to campaign a works Grey Flash LRO 993 with a big port head and it had TT-style pushrod tubes which consisted of a union that screwed into the pushrod holes and was a rounded taper at the bottom, the lower part of the tube was funnel-shaped with thin walls and a gland nut with a floating bevelled washer inside. The nut would be tightened up over the union in the head pulling the tube up through the normal seal which I find very good if they are new and flexible. The beauty of this system is as soon as the gland nut is slackened the head can be lifted as the normal pushrod tubes have to be extracted from the head. Also, the seals can be replaced without lifting the head !
Remove pushrod, slacken gland nut, push tube down into C/case remove the union from head pull up and out the nut and tube leaving seal exposed to be renewed easily.
I will get a set-out photo them with sizes some time, very much more practical.
bananaman
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I wanted to use those I have a set however they have a design that tends to be rather more inflexible to cylinder height. The set I had were fine on the racer but when I wanted to use them on a lower compression road bike it was impossible to assemble as the angles prevented threading up while conventional tubes easily accommodated the angle I guess if you had concertina ' bellows' like Dan Smith's short stroke you would be ok
NB I have now searched all my old emails and PM but still can't find where I got those seals from....
 

MartynG

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
no matter what type or material the seal is you will never stop leaks if the push-rod tubes are not completely round and free of any scratch or score marks
 

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