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Engine assemblyGofo part 4

david bowen

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
Non-VOC Member
Place the drive side crankcase down on to two blocks of wood chain side down put in flywheel assembly with bearings on shafts into crankcase place timing side on put two crankcase bolts through tighten up stand assembly up put spacer on drive shaft put on nut and washer pull flywheel assembly tight to drive side , check con rods are centre of bore hole measure if of centre pull crankcase apart place E76 shimms between bearing and flywheel to make conrods dead centre paint sealent on crankcases faces (we used osotite)make sure you put in G36/1 before you put crankcase half together ( red face if you forget) bolt assembly up put crankcase parts on (tip) when you put the chain side on clutch sprocket put your clutch carrier into PD20 this stops any damage to seal and bushes also place G40 ratchet shaft in postion with G81indicator lever pulled back to first gear postion with a strong elastic band by now you would have been told which barrels and pistons were to be put on this engine, we had thin alloy u plates that slide between the cylinder studs on conrods to hold them when putting piston and barrels on, next put in timing gears with all shimms and spacers valve lifting linkage ahd place steady plate over spindells, put on heads and brackets on pull down with torque spanner place clock guages on all four valve springs adjust tappets then adjust with the add of the clock gauge plus .0010th place timming disc on drive side main shaft and carry out timing useing the correct size ET49 half time pinion for back lash when all correct stamp mark on ET43 put nuts on to spindels tap in spindels to correct end play (cold) by this time you would have fitted and timed the mag and put the dynamo on, and fitted clutch and all covers when all this was done the foreman would come over check and stamp numbers on the engine then sent over to cycle assembly. ps G81 pulled back to first postion if you do not when you put the gearbox in you will not be able to select the correct gears
 
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b'knighted

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Hi David,
Thanks for a great series of articles.
What mark did you stamp on the pushrod?
When were the bits all stamped with the matching number?
Cheers,
 

david bowen

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
Non-VOC Member
I was Gofo when building engines I assisted no 1 man who sometimes left his mark on the engine,all the covers were marked in the early days, as the quality improved from the foundry only the crankcases were stamped I have seen many later number covers stamped I think these have been done when engines were rebuilt at a much later date the vincent service dept never stamp covers,
 

david bowen

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
Non-VOC Member
What b knighted means some of the guys that built the engine use to stamp there mark behind the push rod in the casting eg. hs sd dt ed
 
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david bowen

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
Non-VOC Member
sorry b knighted missed your point the numbers on crankcase and covers were done at no2 factory before they went into machine shop,
 

clevtrev

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
sorry b knighted missed your point the numbers on crankcase and covers were done at no2 factory before they went into machine shop,
I would have thought that the mating numbers would have been done after machining, and when the parts were bolted together, ready for linishing, I`m referring to the cover no`s. not the crankcase ones.
 

david bowen

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
Non-VOC Member
The crankcases and covers were stamped then fettled with the aid of air driven hand drills then to machine shop, a late friend of mine John Finnemore was one of guys that did this job before coming to vincents he was a piano maker. his boss at vincents was Jack Furness you will see him at this years series A rally 86 not out
 
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